Saturday, April 14, 2012

Organic Panic

Pacific Redwood
Don’t be alarmed, there’s no actual reason to create, or partake in pandemoniums that do not exist. You might have read the title and thought so, but really, keep relaxing, as it is more alarming to see one’s health deteriorate exponentially. On some paranoiac level, I have at times, wondered about what I drink, and exactly how the base product was cultivated. People seem to share the same fears for just about anything imbibed or eaten these days, but how many are actually willing to go the organic route? I do not necessarily condone any one gastronomic habit, but I always like to adhere to the benefit of the doubt; more or less,  it means believing in that round, green emblem that says, in some way, “This product is sustainably farmed, and just as bio-dynamically perverse as great-grandpa’s chicken farm, you know, the one that existed two-and a half centuries ago?" Fine, you may be a newcomer to the concept of utilizing less technological intervention when it comes to harvesting, but some would argue, even unto their potential demise, that there’s something really quizzical to all this temporal naturalization of the human diet.  
Ever hear of SO2? That’s Sulfites. Basically, the most recognizable culprit, as it is a common preservative...oh? But what kind is it exactly? The one that keeps the freshness coming and eventually prevailing; not the good freshness either, it’s like the one you would see permeating those fruits that somehow, do not mold-over and do not implode with natural rot. Granted, there have been worse things done to wine, but shouldn’t we be talking about prevalence? Well...yes, because there’s a long history to inorganic practices and all-round salaciousness that’s been associated with winemaking. Does methanol ring a bell? Do notions of antifreeze come into play when thinking of white wine? If you’re thinking they’ve played their part, they have been...it’s on court record. This sort of scandal has not been uncommon, but it has it’s disagreeable place in basic consumption.
Hofer G.V.
You want purity, that’s for sure, no one wants to live near a smoldering tire yard, or a demolition site, but we try the best we can. There is relief though from the common thought that wine is supposed to be finessed and pure, but let’s face it, people really like money. Perhaps that’s why a good number of producers have been brought to court for their actions, but for the fear of legal brouhaha, we’re not talking about them tonight. I do however, have some interesting alternatives, and suggest going with those nouveau producers who are trying to be more squeaky-clean than their olden predecessors. I tend to like Pacific Redwood, sounds simple, and it is, because it’s all-organic, vegan, contains no added sulfites and for oddness sake, it’s non-vintage. That would cause some eyebrows to inflect, but the truth is in the taste, it’s pure assessment of berry fruits and plum work very well with picnics and camping ventures. I like it because there’s no potential worry, but the threat of intaking too much alcohol. I like a good white wine too, it may not be vegan so-to-speak, but it has it’s place. The 2011 Hofer Gruner Vetliner, is in a one-liter bottle, comes with a beer cap and is always seasonal and always organic. It’s actually quite fresh, in this case, it’s dewy, and has enough fruit push and precision to make it a formidable summer white. Not too bad for Austria, considering they’ve dealt with their share of blatant no-no’s in the industry. 
What is organic wine exactly? I know that sounds like a online business FAQ, but it’s all the same here my friend. It basically means there’s no chemical fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, modifiers, vine posts, additives, and extraneous contaminants. I like a good organic wine, and it begrudges me to think that I can always get one, but the trouble is, there’s no guarantee on the label. For the most part, it requires a lot of money, red tape, and from year-to-year it only gets more expensive for the winemaker. The truth is, you need to do some research on your producer, and see if it actually is, or not. Some would also disagree on the validity of unadulterated  wine in terms of nuance purity and balance, but again, that’s completely up to the individual and routinely subjective. 
I personally have noticed some working differences, but nothing too far flung from really great, artisan producers. Please, by all means, do not think that all biologically pure wines are more expensive, which realistically, is the worst misconception in this business. Fine, your bell peppers are probably six dollars a pound, but not your wine. Even the aforementioned ones are no more than thirteen dollars apiece. I would always recommend going with an organic producer, but I couldn’t in good conscious endorse one that has no actual indication of craftsmanship. There are some bad ones, and some good ones; but those who think they’re just going green to earn more green, usually do not impress me whatsoever. 
Unless perhaps, they compliment the cooking of organic food. 
Brian Maniotis
Wine Warehouse Team
Visit us @: westchesterwine.com 

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