Holiday Prologue...Sort Of.

Goldschlager

Though I already made my plight about the holiday last week, I seem to have, at my own dysfunction, forgotten about dessert. It’s a nominal part of the festivity and everyone is entitled to it, but I wonder...Is there any actual positivity to the idea of alcohol being applied to sweets and confections? Yes...there’s a good cross-reference to Grand Marnier truffles, rum cakes and even the sporadic use of framboise for brioche tarts, I would suggest maybe once, to top-off the night with a drink. I mean, you can still have all the fanciful pies, cookies, or collections of sugary amusements, but there’s something a friend and I cooked-up one night that you might enjoy. 

Now, please don’t be alarmed, but when I say “cooked-up,”  I don’t necessarily mean a scientific hodgepodge, but rather, a controlled experiment. I remember it being somewhat cold outside, and there was little to do, since our immediate families had already turned-in. Consequently, there was nothing more amusing than the ambience of old films. Blasphemy...not for the movies, but honestly, what is there to drink after you’ve had the fill of savory and, or, sweet? 

Remember Goldshlager? it sounds like a German beer brand, but it’s actually the quintessence of Swiss ingenuity represented in floating specks of actual gold. I swear that it’s perfectly edible, there’s no worry for elemental poisoning here, since most people can’t overdose on Au79; really, most jewelry outlets will be happy to accommodate you based on this principle. Basically, it’s cinnamon schnapps, with a lot more personality than others would suggest with peaches, blackberries, or any other fruits. Lo, it comes in a plunger-shaped bottle! Interesting, but tasty as well, and it’s going to help me emphasize the storied concoction I previously mentioned. 

Canton Ginger

All you need really, is some mulled cider, (i.e. apple cider, cloves, cinnamon, and dried orange lightly heated over a stovetop) a dollop of sweet “creme fraiche” and a final drizzle of caramel. You can add the Goldschlager to the cider mix at any time, but most people realistically, add enough to meet their personal requisites. I think It’s a fantastic warm cocktail that really shows its worth all through the wintertime bouts of seasonal depression. For whatever value it is, it takes one spirit to know another, so don’t hesitate to use ginger liqueur, see: “Canton.” If cinnamon is not worthwhile to you, this item can alleviate the boredom found in common schnapps, by having that little bit of Cognac to mingle with that gingerly aspect. 

I think it’s a good idea to have something a bit warmer this time of year, instead of always relying on cool, refreshing drinks all the time. Not to say that a warm cocktail cannot be somewhat refreshing, but It very well could cleanse the palate, if not being the marker for a more relaxing Christmas, or new year. I usually like to sit down with an old friendly mixer at some time during the holidays and It can prove its worth if I actually have the time to make one. Beyond shopping and planning, cooking and merrymaking, I hope we all have the scheduling necessary to look back on the year with a warm cup of something. 

Make it a good something...   

                     

Brian Maniotis

Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

Visit us @: westchesterwine.com

Prelude to Gobbling

Berger BZ

I know what you’re mulling-over...It’s the seemingly obligatory blog entry that has something to do with Thanksgiving. Ok, fine...but when the gaggles of cranberry sauce, root vegetables and bird proteins lay on the table, you must wonder if something is missing. Now, as a second-guess, you might ponder that I have something to mention about my own family, aside from the fact that politics, posthumous Yankee games and hereditary diseases comprise our major themes of discussion. Regardless, a talkative handful of relatives is necessary, but to whittle away the hours with chatter, beer and mouthfuls of tryptophan is somewhat mandatory. Seriously, I don’t mean to peel back the expectations of such a bountiful day, or create some new traditions, but I would recommend going with something other than a top Brunello, or Cabernet as  the right approach to holiday drinking. Nearly ever year, I tend to approach people looking for sumptuous, full-bodied, fruit-laden, or abundantly hedonistic wine at a time when there’s an inclined necessity to gorge and splurge. That’s fine...I mean, with the right stomach, anything is possible; more or less, I aim to save others from the possibility of gastrointestinal hellfire. By right, a subtle, more austere selection of reds and whites are easier to swallow. 

“Blauer Zweitgelt!” 

What an audacious way to start and offset the second paragraph don’t you think? Of course, this is purely for dramatic effect, but there’s no reason to be overcome here; that is, if you know what I’m talking about. I have no intention of being sketchy, but there’s rarely a need for any other exclamation other than the conventional “wow” if you take Zweitgelts into consideration. Berger’s is not dense, weighty, or mouth-filling, but it shows the immediate promise of practical wine. Blue-tinged, with an equilibrium of weight, juicy dark berries and azure fruit, this varietal is the miracle red for feasts of all sorts, including the conventional Thanksgiving cornucopia. A clone of “Blaufrankish” and “St. Laurent,” the grape tends to yield a complex profile similar to say, other berry-oriented wines like Pinot Noir, Dolcetto, Barbera and just about anything coaxed from Gamay. The surprising thing about it, is the varietal’s fruit-laden personality does not detract from an annual meal that is, by all measures, hefty in proportion. The Austro-Germanic appeal of cool grape-growing seasons and bavarian appetites, appear to have coincided with it’s production. Perhaps it’s why people are looking forward to “Spatburgunder,” a.k.a. German Pinot, as the new Burgundy and not paying so much attention to the long-dominated wine trades of appellations like “Gevrey-Chambertin,” or, “Cotes-De-Beaune.” Sure, these choices still as versatile, but after you’ve spent good money on delectable eats, the last thing you want to do is feel remorseful when mashing, what should be, two special occasions into one. No one is going to notice hints of “underbrush” and “garrigue” when Parents grand, or plain, are verbally lauding this year’s version of ‘potatoes a la anything.’

I could have given-up and went the Beaujolais route, but I’m not going to do that. Consequently though, I think the region still makes fantastic table wine, but we’ve seem to have broken down its common varietals into one obvious choice. I repeat my previous exclaims again in spirit, but If you must, Italy may be able to help us with, per se, the adaptable “Lagrein,” or, “Rosso Di Montalcino.” Hint: Lead-on from any Rosso Toscano as well. Loire Valley reds and Whites are the unofficial French connection to our most familiar day of quenching thirsts and pangs of hunger. Oh, and Give that noticeable wink to the ever-expanding thirsting part. The one maxim to uphold though, is not a statement, but something to remember: “There are a ton of reasonable choices in wining your way into a successful night of food and drink.” It’s too easy now. Intrinsically, Petite Sirah may be too kirschy, or Liqueur-rich, but if you find the right one, let’s say, the starkly balanced type, it can work well if manipulated into a brambly, juicier wine with fine-grained tannins. Needless to say, I’m not going to leave the Portuguese out of this one either, since the brunt of their productions are practical food wines. From the expression in the glass, to the words emanated from my lips: “Good Job Portugal!” 

Breggo Gewurz

Whites might need a little more analysis given the fact that I already mentioned the Northwesterly parts of France. There’s no wrongdoing in choosing anything from “Languedoc-Roussillon,” or a light, creamy “N.Z.S.B” (New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc) As-is, my trademark white wine for the holiday is nothing askew from the classic Gewurztraminer. Soft and light, but hinting towards the supple, they make phenomenal choices. Some may call it sweet, some implore ripeness, however, I call it a nominated entry. There’s some debate to this one, but I feel it has earned the Golden Turkey placard. Let’s say it embodies the flora of Viognier and macerated pit fruits. Take the “Breggo” gewurz. Even though i may sound hypocritical, the price is comparatively higher than the average fourteen-dollar mark. Given, it’s the one thing that may alleviate the uncertainty of having slightly-chilled whites in the late fall. Usually an Alsatian pedigree, this one is of Californian stock, but with the old influences remaining; nectarines, hazelnut and ripe persimmon...pliant, gorgeous and feathery. 

Even if you manage to do good with one of those thematic Thanksgivings, like say, a mexican flare-up, or some fusion of Ethiopian and the usual fare, you should have no doubts about some of my timely recommendations. Despite how cost-effective, how relevant, or reasonable the price, It takes some time to discover that there’s a varietal for every occasion borne from eating. There are no promises and no contracts, but something about the traditions that are built and amended as your family sees fit. Perhaps you don’t need wine to partake, but for those who think it can enliven the mood, or complement the felicity of long evenings, it might be somewhat justifiable. I have afforded loosely, the label of a “wine guy” but there’s no reason to take me as literally and simply by the title. I am, if anything, just another beacon that fosters the human appeal towards wine. Forgive me if I appear so brash, or reliant on sentimentality, but even a handful of the world’s best vintages seem reticent without the bond of something much more familial. 

There’s no reasonable critique for that. 

***Happy Thanksgiving to all my readers.***

-Brian Maniotis

Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

Visit us @: westchesterwine.com

Des Pineaux Perdus.

Francois French Pineau

Incredulous, unheard-of and simply passed-over, there’s yet another thing we’ve managed to shun away from our ill-experienced lips. Hmmm...maybe that’s too harsh of a generalization; but on the contrary, most people would forget to notice a digestif as it is. For example, confront yourself with these indispensables: Pinot, Chard, Cab and Merlot. Does it make sense? Possibly...but here’s my issue: What happens after you’re done drinking them?  Or, more imperatively, what is the best thing to have after your full? What goes on after dinner, or,  beyond that moment in which you realized your dessert was the least bit imposing? Worries are nothing uncommon and we all have the same uncertainties when deciding on what to do at feasts-end. Do we let  ladies repair to the drawing room while the gents swirl brandy and speak puffery over politics and cigars? I hope in a single eon from now, that we don’t readdress the old stuffiness and parlor talk identified in the climax of a get-together. No, simply pick-up a piece of bottled history. Especially one that has waned very little from the old craftsmanship; seeing, if possible, that it does not owe itself to impractical social gestures and questions of “taste.” 

For emphasis on this, a brandywine that has more to do with unadulterated juice than the grapes, or even the distillation itself, is probably the reason why “Pineau Des Charentes” has been slightly forgotten. Pronounced like “Pinot” with a little more “oooh!” in the three latter vowels, it’s rarely mentioned in the United States, or elsewhere. Hailing from a place just within Cognac, the spirit, and, or, aperitif, was one of those happy accidents whose creation was benchmarked sometime during the 16th century. As many tales have been stretched, purported, or made-up, the chief thing to understand is that the “mistake” was nothing less than a misdirected placement of unfermented grapemust with a great deal of “eau-de-vie.” 

Now, you might call this a drunkard’s embellishment, but like some of the best hodgepodges in the world, Pineau is something more than the common man’s desire for practical inebriation. Year-old Cognac and the juice that’s used in the after-dinner specialty, is poured into barrels and then set to begin fermentation. Grapes used, imply Sauvignon, Folle Blanche, Colombard, Ugni Blanc Semillon and Montils. However, some of the red-tinged varieties leave me to phenol-based guessing games. I tend to like the crimson P-De-C’s a little better than those with a traditional golden-yellow hue, but as always, I wouldn’t say no to a bottle of either-or. Aging time is a remarkable 18 months and sometimes as little as eight. There are standards of course, but depending on tradition, the reds are usually are the lesser coaxed, while the whites experience more time in oak. If that’s not a viticultural anomaly, it’s one I look forward to supporting.    

Amazingly cocktail friendly, i would have to think that "Lillet" and "Cocchi Americano" have some competition. I like the idea of rousing-up some of Pineau’s more gallant mixers. For one, the “Charentes Cocktail,” is basically one part gin and our notable aperitif, with a pimento-filled olive to finish. The “Rainbow Sour” is a classic peach brandy, any one citrus fruit and simple syrup. My favorite is the “Charentais” which blends framboise, fresh lemon juice and yes, more Cognac. Stylistically, the hairdo-inspired “Pompadour” is best served however you want it...no matter how you interpret the blending, it’s smooth enough to put your local crooner out of business. 

Prunier Pineau

I do not abide by producers all the time, but I have to wonder who had the “boules,” figuratively speaking, to name a Pineau: “Francois French.” As it stands, the person sounds like the culturally ambiguous Chef who dominates more adolescent needs and wants. Good thing for adults though, because Francois is not a corporate icon; but rather, a peddler of juicy, more refined tastes, that somehow, do not offend us with his decision to utilize three-fourths cognac, instead of one. Powerful, but fresh and lively, this is one of the few carmine-colored exports I can drink with unmitigated neatness. As for the honey-rich “Prunier,” or, “Pasquet,” I tend to think that worker bees are diversifying their efforts outside the comb. Pinches of savory and ripe apricot complete the equation for an average of twenty-five, to thirty bucks worth of long-repeated enjoyment. 

I do not know of anything more inviting than a European twist on an old nightcap. Pineau may be a staple in older avenues and it may be stuffy to those who still make comments...but I like it. Aside from the ‘Pour champagne on it,’ aesthetic in popular drinking, it makes for some quick refreshments as well. No need to mix, because it’s good on its own and will compete amongst the dynastic reds and whites of similar, if not reasonable fortification....port, or sherry sir? I don’t think it will take-flight in the way producers are hoping for, but I feel a powerful effort ahead that will make Cognac known for something other than its direct conceits.

Heh, Pineau...it’s just brandy and must, but worth the having part.       

Brian Maniotis

Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

Visit Us @: westchesterwine.com

Carménère...Now What

Oops Carm

'Arma-dilla, Li-barry, Mer-Lot, Carmen-ner-ee’...do you notice a pattern here? Perhaps you know of these common mispronunciations, but the last word has the overburden of being verbally misshapen. Like the countless boasts of an Oil-Baron’s “Yee-Haws! and the presence of an “Aww-Shucks,” every so often, popular references to this Chilean cashcrop include:  “Carum-nere, Carmen-i-niare, or, “You know! That red wine beginning with C and ending with an E !” Although I have a short command of the French language, my difficulty with it, stems from not having enough time to learn the proper inflections within the “Accent Aigu,” or the “Accent Grave.” I’m told, it's practically mandatory in order to speak the name of many Francophone grapes...including this one. So much of the trouble with this crimson dynamo has nothing to do with proper diction, but recognizing its presence in the marketplace and seeing it as more than a disposable, cheap wine best suited for your latter period lunch-breaks.              

                 

Yes, the berries need a little more heat to ripen, a little more attention due to a high content of “Methoxypyrazine,” which may translate to a higher level of vegetative notes. Remanding it to a useful cooking wine is not the answer though, given the “grassy” notes you can expect, are usually backed-up by high concentrations of juiciness and overall fruit content. My cause for concern, is the threat of Carménère losing its diacriticals when people liken the grape to Merlot. Studies have shown that, if anything, the DNA match-up exists around the parental Cabernet Franc and the extinct strain of “Gros Cabernet” that resided in Bordeaux for some time. Trying to understand varietal differences, it’s difficult to see the gobs of red fruits found in the ‘Big M‘ and all the dessert spices that entail. 

Andina Rsv Carm

Cab is, in fact, a more genial comparison, given all those toasty, savory, vanillin-rich notes found within. Call it “Grand Vidure” and there’s no element of surprise there, considering that it practically means “Big Cabernet.” Oenologists and wine dorks may tell you, its tertiary name, “Biturica” had the Romans using the word to refer back to the Bordelaise...which leaves me guessing. I think there’s more to it than the extents of what South America has been doing with Carm; but really, the producers deserve some much-needed attention. Think “Chili” and not “Chile,” because there’s a great deal of hot, roasted red pepper to partake in when you look at something other than fruit nuance. Smokiness is also optional, with darker, more voluminous notes of blackberries, currants and yes, even  woodland mushrooms appearing. I’ll leave you to search the verdure of your mind to figure out if It’s Terra Andina RSV, or another one that’s a little more casual in its assessment of the word “Oops !”  

There is too much to be savored here, but still, there are only shades of interest. Despite the unfortunate mispronunciations, misguidance and overall threats from old phylloxera louses and a lackluster market, it continues to baffle seasoned, if not well-experienced palettes. I would say something about the endearing quality of its typical, medium-bodied structure, but beyond the morale of an almost old-world style, with new-world aspirations for it, this wine deserves more than just a taste. Juxtaposing it with Merlot or Cabernet won’t do, because its only the growing patterns that appear similar, not the flavour. Give it time, give it concern and you’ll notice there’s more than just punctuations to be had. 

Accents will also suffice you....

Brian Maniotis

Westchester Wine Warehouse

Visit Us @: westchesterwine.com