Thursday, April 19, 2012

By any other name...

Dalton 

It’s basically rosé season...you know what that means in my world. Red wine takes a brief respite in order to make due for the impromptu heat waves and the springtime interim. White wine is still available, but it doesn’t seem quite as interesting compared to the incarnadine splendor of something much more revealing, more esoteric. Summer is basically on route, and tends to arrive before the first ice cream cone is dropped on the curb; a complete mess found melting on its downside, with flies and bees hymning around, making you wonder if there’s any allegorical reference to the mention of this incomparable frozen treat. Well, sort of. Think about all of the post-winter showcases that tend to surface, everything from salads, to linguini primavera, chilled coffee and tea, being languorously emphasized. Conjure the images of how most of these things are taken for granted; salads nibbled, picked-through with slow and pretentious forking, pastas demarcated to brown-baggery, iced drinks sucked down to cold cubes; any entertainment, if ever, finalized in stirring a straw within plastic containers, creating noises resembling that of a bird caller, or the boisterous cackle of an angry goose.  
That is not the case with rosé though, as you may have seen, it gets pretty exciting. Of course, there’s a lot of revenue to be had in making sure there’s enough for North America to swallow, but there’s a certain appeal that is unmistakable. Granted, the effect is simple; bound in practicality, accessibility, and overall, made to be really easy to drink, it has its place during oppressively hot summer months. People seem to drown themselves in the effects of weathering decadence, but as a result, the most prevalent symptoms of this, are the conventional misunderstandings we share about seasonal crap. It is certainly not crap, far from “blush,” and is usually not fortified and sweet, but better regarded as a completely dry indulgence. They come in shades from “Saumon,” to plasma red, and depending on where they come from, the impression you get from tasting them alone will surely differ. I tend to like rosés from just about anywhere, and most wine producing nations are happy to oblige, considering it’s a simple practice of fermenting red grapes while only letting the skins remain for a short time. Hence, you have a product that creates that classic pink translucence. 
Senorio De Iniesta
But taste? That’s the issue, because again, since the 1970’s, the idea of anything resembling a white zinfandel, was commonly associated with sappy, unstructured wine; which, to my own misunderstanding, the notion still exists today. No, that is not the proper mindset, being that the most definitive items, are usually crisp, or mostly dry. Not all of them, but most are. The way I describe it, a great rosé should present itself like a phenomenal white wine, conveniently made with red grapes. This might sound confusing for Champagne enthusiasts, but we’re not venturing to that point. However, selective favoritism, and renowned producers have maintained my practical theorems on this subject. Senorio De Iniesta makes fantastic wine altogether, but that off-crimson color from their "Bobal" grape, is almost too alluring. Think blood orange marmalade, candied ginger and cherry cordial interspersed with hints of macerated grapefruit. I’m serious, this is no joke about it, these are quintessential nuances! Slightly chilled, the effect is something to marvel at in this burgeoning Spanish fanfare of sorts. Now, for all those people who think I’m opposed to something with crucial nods towards sweetness, you’re wrong. “Dalton” has a fairly ripe, fruit-forward style, with a naturally resounding sweetness that doesn’t appear fortified, or abjectly “messed-with.” Think young plums, crushed flowers and strawberry coulis. Oh, and it’s a great Israeli wine to boot, completely “Kosh” too. Still, both are well under twenty bucks, and worth it, despite how flowery, ultra-effeminate, metrosexual, or emasculated it makes most guys appear. Seriously dude, don’t worry, there’s no harm in drinking anything pink this summer. Your girlfriend and, or wife, will appreciate your modular sensitivity.
Though the ultimate problem with rosé is not the making, but the appeal, or the fear of personal reprimand for people who tend to believe there’s nothing offered in the way of total fulfillment. That’s completely wrong, as the interest of more contemporary wines in this category has increased tenfold. There’s such a food-borne versatility for these roseate entries, being that they can pair with everything from grilled red meats, salads, and even those mild, or hearty curry dishes. They also make fresh, affordable sangrias and have the performing nuances that would outshine some of the best red and white wines in their price bracket. You may take a seasonal approach to drinking it, but for all intents, it’s profitable to utilize them all year round. A wine store won’t simply give it away after the summer, so take advantage of the fact that it’s always around for your disposal.
Lest, you dispose of it improperly...but that’s your own problem. 
Brian Maniotis
Wine Warehouse Team

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