| Revolution Bandol |
Most people have forgotten the intrinsic value of Provencal wine. Even though Rose dominates the one-dimensional spectrum of the region’s outputs, there’s always a cute, awe-abiding underdog scampering its way through someone’s vineyard. No, I’m not talking about the one animal everyone sees, from time-to-time, at just about every estate the world throughout. What I would like to unleash, is the innocuous curiosity to which we hold the powerful red blends of a little place located in southeastern France.
Like an old commodore printer creating a cross-hatched blip of color on its hexagonal geography, the silhouette of France’s southeastern border, is tack-marked with a demure little place called “Bandol.” Located within the foyer of Provence, the appellation is known to have existed for some 2.500 years, to which, during its earlier periods, the Romans had once held legion. Known as a quiet, somewhat tranquil setting, the maritime community and summer bivouacs for disgruntled Parisians, is something of a mediterranean showcase. Distinctly thought of as a “Town,” vacationers see opportunity in marveling at its seaports and drinking the local the local fare. Not a particularly dishonest amount of attractions, since considering the general idea of what to do within the appellate has gone generally unchanged since *600 B.C.
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| Pecoulas Clairette |
What about libation? No joke, it’s white wines tend to exact pleasure in installments of Clairette, Ugni Blanc and Bourbonlec, but the real attitude behind any kind of viticulture here is found in rouge. Bandol reds boast their reliance on almost nothing but Mourvedre, moreso in a dark, full-bodied style, that takes-on notions of violets, leather, black fruits, minerals and earth. Sometimes, winemaking gets tricky and Grenache, or Cinsault is provided to balance-out the effect of its oneological overachievements. Regardless, the effect of making good on an attempt to provide racy, complex, but focused exports, is not something uncommon here. I think a good example of that is founded in something called, “Revolution.” Not a socio-political uprising perchance, but something based on the idea that one does not have to storm “The Bastille” in order to obtain new varietals. Actually, the revolt comes in a 750ml bottle that perpends the use of a little bit of something deemed unnecessary by law-abiding appellations. It’s Mourvedre of course, but this entry from “Tour du Bon” is an experiment and much less a crime, that involves Syrah; which based on tasting notes, could be abetting a latter-era fugitive. Almost like a noir epic, the surname reads with the hackneyed use of decoupage lettering found in ransom notes. The stemware pictured on front is a little more cute in its fostering of drawn-on arrows to depict an entire wineglass. Taste-wise, the overripe black fruits, red licorice and salted blueberry tapenade is the real artful expression here...maybe with a splice of Kalamata olive here and there.
The Clairette I mentioned should not go without response either. Considering it’s nature to combine a supple frame, with crisp, floral undertones, seems like an incongruence in the description of any wine, red or white. Still, Dom Pecoulas has birthed a phenomenon in the “Des Temps” aperitifs and conjugal food wines. Though the white may not be from Bandol per se, it’s probably one of the few chances you have to enjoy something from Provence that doesn’t offer blithe notes of grapefruit. Interspersed notes of lemon, honeysuckle and white peach flow through a clean, refreshing back-palate that’s mobile, but not ambling towards a lack of refinement.
Give me any Bandol and I’m happy...unless there‘s a sheer lack of it.
Brian Maniotis
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team
Visit us @: westchesterwine.com
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