Friday, December 30, 2011

Creme De La Cremant.

Clavelin Cremant-Jura 

You know what’s coming...a new year. With it, we’re ready to experience the benefits of the new and to think about something more resolute. You might have a key point to advertise to others as you lift a glass to the zenith of your arm’s length and proclaim: “My new year will act as an impetus to lose twenty pounds, raft down the Tarmac and cut down my usage of the word ‘so-and-so.’” Ok, you might be on the positive side when 2012 rolls on by, but are you going to be dead-set to the things you always wanted to do, but will more than likely never accomplish? Probably. We’ve all made mild stipulations before and it’s no surprise that most people wind up ten pounds heavier, twice as frustrated and that expansive vacation winds-up being a weekend trip to a frumpy “B-And-B.” Speaking of which, you’re probably thinking about going with that bottle of bubbles before the new annum arrives, which is probably the most misunderstood tradition that has come about in the past hundred years, but that’s what you’re doing. For whomever’s sake, other than your own, there’s a lot of good sparkling wine to accent New Year’s eve, so you don’t need to rely on Champagne again and again and again...
I do not want to say that Champagne is not an option, it’s perfectly normal to want it, savor it, but there’s so much more. I think A “Cremant” is a much better idea. Based on the name, you’re probably thinking that it’s a heady, fruit-forward, enticingly sweet white sparkler that has a place near your spumanti, or Moscato D’Asti; another great idea! Still, we’re talking about an alternative to the expensive Champenois d’elite. For about twenty bucks, or oftentimes, much less, you can rely on the “Jura, Burgundy, or that little misunderstood region of France called: “L’Alsace.”         
Hubert Clavelin is a great producer of Cremant in the Jura Region that makes you wonder why the term “Still Wine” was blurted out a long time ago. It has all the positive outlets that you can expect from common nuances. Though it may not be an attractive one, bacon fat is my favorite out of the selection, but you don’t have to agree with me completely. You could also think of it as a savory, yet saline element that complements the overall fruit. The fruitier aspect compensates for the roasted herbs you’ll find, making their way towards the back-palate, as apples, pears, and honeycomb upend your expectations. It’s actually 100% Chardonnay...and probably my favorite one...ever.
Vissoux Cremant-Bourg.
Cremant is bucolic enough to make me doff a straw cap and ride a donkey all the way through Bourgogne. It’s not my imagination, its a definitive want.  Why not? The Domaine Vissoux has a Cremant that juts-out from the land of White Burgundies and otherwise...usually the more expensive kind. It’s a haymaker’s paradise, yes, because of the citrusy profile intermixed with notions of cracked wheat, gooseberry and grilled bread. Sounds to me like a breakfast feast of fruit and bread...it usually is, in this case. Gold, bubbly and starkly reminding me of what it means to be living in New York, I have never encountered a repose to this particular style of countryside living. It’s like a vacation away from apts. and cranky, overcompensated metropolitans. 
The really nice thing about this often-forgotten installment of bubbly, is the fact that Limoux, the Loire Valley and just about a whole host of other regions and principals have their roots in sparkling wines that, if any, do not confine themselves to the idea that it has to be bank-breaking. What’s more appealing, is that every producer is trying to get your attention, or at least skew your interest. That’s a good thing, because how many times have you encountered Champagne that is simply too much money, or had a domestic bubble burst when you found out that America hasn’t quite mastered the art of effervescence? It might be cheaper, but is it right for you? 
Wait, does this mean that all of this really has to do with money after all?
Brian Maniotis 
Westchester Wine Warehouse

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