Prelude to Gobbling

Berger BZ

I know what you’re mulling-over...It’s the seemingly obligatory blog entry that has something to do with Thanksgiving. Ok, fine...but when the gaggles of cranberry sauce, root vegetables and bird proteins lay on the table, you must wonder if something is missing. Now, as a second-guess, you might ponder that I have something to mention about my own family, aside from the fact that politics, posthumous Yankee games and hereditary diseases comprise our major themes of discussion. Regardless, a talkative handful of relatives is necessary, but to whittle away the hours with chatter, beer and mouthfuls of tryptophan is somewhat mandatory. Seriously, I don’t mean to peel back the expectations of such a bountiful day, or create some new traditions, but I would recommend going with something other than a top Brunello, or Cabernet as  the right approach to holiday drinking. Nearly ever year, I tend to approach people looking for sumptuous, full-bodied, fruit-laden, or abundantly hedonistic wine at a time when there’s an inclined necessity to gorge and splurge. That’s fine...I mean, with the right stomach, anything is possible; more or less, I aim to save others from the possibility of gastrointestinal hellfire. By right, a subtle, more austere selection of reds and whites are easier to swallow. 

“Blauer Zweitgelt!” 

What an audacious way to start and offset the second paragraph don’t you think? Of course, this is purely for dramatic effect, but there’s no reason to be overcome here; that is, if you know what I’m talking about. I have no intention of being sketchy, but there’s rarely a need for any other exclamation other than the conventional “wow” if you take Zweitgelts into consideration. Berger’s is not dense, weighty, or mouth-filling, but it shows the immediate promise of practical wine. Blue-tinged, with an equilibrium of weight, juicy dark berries and azure fruit, this varietal is the miracle red for feasts of all sorts, including the conventional Thanksgiving cornucopia. A clone of “Blaufrankish” and “St. Laurent,” the grape tends to yield a complex profile similar to say, other berry-oriented wines like Pinot Noir, Dolcetto, Barbera and just about anything coaxed from Gamay. The surprising thing about it, is the varietal’s fruit-laden personality does not detract from an annual meal that is, by all measures, hefty in proportion. The Austro-Germanic appeal of cool grape-growing seasons and bavarian appetites, appear to have coincided with it’s production. Perhaps it’s why people are looking forward to “Spatburgunder,” a.k.a. German Pinot, as the new Burgundy and not paying so much attention to the long-dominated wine trades of appellations like “Gevrey-Chambertin,” or, “Cotes-De-Beaune.” Sure, these choices still as versatile, but after you’ve spent good money on delectable eats, the last thing you want to do is feel remorseful when mashing, what should be, two special occasions into one. No one is going to notice hints of “underbrush” and “garrigue” when Parents grand, or plain, are verbally lauding this year’s version of ‘potatoes a la anything.’

I could have given-up and went the Beaujolais route, but I’m not going to do that. Consequently though, I think the region still makes fantastic table wine, but we’ve seem to have broken down its common varietals into one obvious choice. I repeat my previous exclaims again in spirit, but If you must, Italy may be able to help us with, per se, the adaptable “Lagrein,” or, “Rosso Di Montalcino.” Hint: Lead-on from any Rosso Toscano as well. Loire Valley reds and Whites are the unofficial French connection to our most familiar day of quenching thirsts and pangs of hunger. Oh, and Give that noticeable wink to the ever-expanding thirsting part. The one maxim to uphold though, is not a statement, but something to remember: “There are a ton of reasonable choices in wining your way into a successful night of food and drink.” It’s too easy now. Intrinsically, Petite Sirah may be too kirschy, or Liqueur-rich, but if you find the right one, let’s say, the starkly balanced type, it can work well if manipulated into a brambly, juicier wine with fine-grained tannins. Needless to say, I’m not going to leave the Portuguese out of this one either, since the brunt of their productions are practical food wines. From the expression in the glass, to the words emanated from my lips: “Good Job Portugal!” 

Breggo Gewurz

Whites might need a little more analysis given the fact that I already mentioned the Northwesterly parts of France. There’s no wrongdoing in choosing anything from “Languedoc-Roussillon,” or a light, creamy “N.Z.S.B” (New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc) As-is, my trademark white wine for the holiday is nothing askew from the classic Gewurztraminer. Soft and light, but hinting towards the supple, they make phenomenal choices. Some may call it sweet, some implore ripeness, however, I call it a nominated entry. There’s some debate to this one, but I feel it has earned the Golden Turkey placard. Let’s say it embodies the flora of Viognier and macerated pit fruits. Take the “Breggo” gewurz. Even though i may sound hypocritical, the price is comparatively higher than the average fourteen-dollar mark. Given, it’s the one thing that may alleviate the uncertainty of having slightly-chilled whites in the late fall. Usually an Alsatian pedigree, this one is of Californian stock, but with the old influences remaining; nectarines, hazelnut and ripe persimmon...pliant, gorgeous and feathery. 

Even if you manage to do good with one of those thematic Thanksgivings, like say, a mexican flare-up, or some fusion of Ethiopian and the usual fare, you should have no doubts about some of my timely recommendations. Despite how cost-effective, how relevant, or reasonable the price, It takes some time to discover that there’s a varietal for every occasion borne from eating. There are no promises and no contracts, but something about the traditions that are built and amended as your family sees fit. Perhaps you don’t need wine to partake, but for those who think it can enliven the mood, or complement the felicity of long evenings, it might be somewhat justifiable. I have afforded loosely, the label of a “wine guy” but there’s no reason to take me as literally and simply by the title. I am, if anything, just another beacon that fosters the human appeal towards wine. Forgive me if I appear so brash, or reliant on sentimentality, but even a handful of the world’s best vintages seem reticent without the bond of something much more familial. 

There’s no reasonable critique for that. 

***Happy Thanksgiving to all my readers.***

-Brian Maniotis

Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

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