| Francois French Pineau |
Incredulous, unheard-of and simply passed-over, there’s yet another thing we’ve managed to shun away from our ill-experienced lips. Hmmm...maybe that’s too harsh of a generalization; but on the contrary, most people would forget to notice a digestif as it is. For example, confront yourself with these indispensables: Pinot, Chard, Cab and Merlot. Does it make sense? Possibly...but here’s my issue: What happens after you’re done drinking them? Or, more imperatively, what is the best thing to have after your full? What goes on after dinner, or, beyond that moment in which you realized your dessert was the least bit imposing? Worries are nothing uncommon and we all have the same uncertainties when deciding on what to do at feasts-end. Do we let ladies repair to the drawing room while the gents swirl brandy and speak puffery over politics and cigars? I hope in a single eon from now, that we don’t readdress the old stuffiness and parlor talk identified in the climax of a get-together. No, simply pick-up a piece of bottled history. Especially one that has waned very little from the old craftsmanship; seeing, if possible, that it does not owe itself to impractical social gestures and questions of “taste.”
For emphasis on this, a brandywine that has more to do with unadulterated juice than the grapes, or even the distillation itself, is probably the reason why “Pineau Des Charentes” has been slightly forgotten. Pronounced like “Pinot” with a little more “oooh!” in the three latter vowels, it’s rarely mentioned in the United States, or elsewhere. Hailing from a place just within Cognac, the spirit, and, or, aperitif, was one of those happy accidents whose creation was benchmarked sometime during the 16th century. As many tales have been stretched, purported, or made-up, the chief thing to understand is that the “mistake” was nothing less than a misdirected placement of unfermented grapemust with a great deal of “eau-de-vie.”
Now, you might call this a drunkard’s embellishment, but like some of the best hodgepodges in the world, Pineau is something more than the common man’s desire for practical inebriation. Year-old Cognac and the juice that’s used in the after-dinner specialty, is poured into barrels and then set to begin fermentation. Grapes used, imply Sauvignon, Folle Blanche, Colombard, Ugni Blanc Semillon and Montils. However, some of the red-tinged varieties leave me to phenol-based guessing games. I tend to like the crimson P-De-C’s a little better than those with a traditional golden-yellow hue, but as always, I wouldn’t say no to a bottle of either-or. Aging time is a remarkable 18 months and sometimes as little as eight. There are standards of course, but depending on tradition, the reds are usually are the lesser coaxed, while the whites experience more time in oak. If that’s not a viticultural anomaly, it’s one I look forward to supporting.
Amazingly cocktail friendly, i would have to think that "Lillet" and "Cocchi Americano" have some competition. I like the idea of rousing-up some of Pineau’s more gallant mixers. For one, the “Charentes Cocktail,” is basically one part gin and our notable aperitif, with a pimento-filled olive to finish. The “Rainbow Sour” is a classic peach brandy, any one citrus fruit and simple syrup. My favorite is the “Charentais” which blends framboise, fresh lemon juice and yes, more Cognac. Stylistically, the hairdo-inspired “Pompadour” is best served however you want it...no matter how you interpret the blending, it’s smooth enough to put your local crooner out of business.
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| Prunier Pineau |
I do not abide by producers all the time, but I have to wonder who had the “boules,” figuratively speaking, to name a Pineau: “Francois French.” As it stands, the person sounds like the culturally ambiguous Chef who dominates more adolescent needs and wants. Good thing for adults though, because Francois is not a corporate icon; but rather, a peddler of juicy, more refined tastes, that somehow, do not offend us with his decision to utilize three-fourths cognac, instead of one. Powerful, but fresh and lively, this is one of the few carmine-colored exports I can drink with unmitigated neatness. As for the honey-rich “Prunier,” or, “Pasquet,” I tend to think that worker bees are diversifying their efforts outside the comb. Pinches of savory and ripe apricot complete the equation for an average of twenty-five, to thirty bucks worth of long-repeated enjoyment.
I do not know of anything more inviting than a European twist on an old nightcap. Pineau may be a staple in older avenues and it may be stuffy to those who still make comments...but I like it. Aside from the ‘Pour champagne on it,’ aesthetic in popular drinking, it makes for some quick refreshments as well. No need to mix, because it’s good on its own and will compete amongst the dynastic reds and whites of similar, if not reasonable fortification....port, or sherry sir? I don’t think it will take-flight in the way producers are hoping for, but I feel a powerful effort ahead that will make Cognac known for something other than its direct conceits.
Heh, Pineau...it’s just brandy and must, but worth the having part.
Brian Maniotis
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team
Visit Us @: westchesterwine.com
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