Friday, September 2, 2011

Swiftly Oriented

Papillon Red
You’re probably wondering what’s going on with the title of this entry. No worry, I’m just taking some time to realize that there’s more to this blogging business than just focusing on opinion alone. Sure, my trademark idiosyncrasies usually seem like personal retrospects that have me blurting out whatever I damn-well please; no, not this time. I bespeak of something more important and someone obviously more keen than myself. Ever hear of Dave Phinney ? If not, recognitions will emerge when I begin to prate well-into the next paragraph. I’m going to be a bit nasty, forgive me, but you’re going to have to wait till the lead is done to discover who, or rather, what I’m talking about. Consider yourself lucky though, my previous statement comes at the risk of having old Journalism professors remonstrating over this press-related “no-no” of mine. Like a juvenile, I say “whatever” and continue on haphazardly. There’s someone more relevant that needs to be profiled here, regardless of the timeliness surrounding this story. Imposing, but every bit as suave, Orin Swift Cellars seems to be at the hilt of handcraft winemaking since 1998, when it began filling glasses and publicly starting a mad dash for anything within its namesake.


Much like Erna Schein or Molly Dooker, there’s some misguidance as to whether or not “Orin” acts as the vigneron at large; but to the odd disappointment of fans, he and the others are only mere portraits, or bynames of other peoples real, or lightly referenced. However, the one behind all the fuss, is simply known as: “Dave.” You might think Mr. Phinney to be a bit of a recluse, with symptoms of claustrophobia and schizophrenia, but that’s only from having looked at one of his labels. Decked in a impenetrably black bottle, and featuring a scraggy, unfinished image of a figure in chains, “The Prisoner” is probably someone you know. Like a good film-noir synopsis, you, or rather, the psyche of the title character, can likely be interchanged in an all-out, gutsy war that tests the psychology of good vs. something perceivably more sinister. 
The Prisoner
I could go into endless analogies about whether the wine, or the drinker, is the more captive, but I’ll leave that to much younger detectives. Scores of like-minded consumers fill stores everyday to understand what can be unleashed in this blend of formidable red grapes. With no penchant for modesty, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Charbono, Grenache and Malbec indicate why since 2003, it’s been such a long-term success. Even after handing over The Prisoner and “Saldo” rights to Hunneus vineyards, they still remain a flagship for Phinney; his other reds, including “Mercury Head” Cab and the recent release of the 2008 “Papillon,” have been of more partial interest; that is, until buyers discover their true bounty. More or less, they have developed higher price tags, but remind yourself though, that “Palermo” Cab, the “D66” Grenache and their “Veladora” Sauvignon Blanc all commit to affordability. 
Not bad for someone who originally earned a degree in Poly-Sci from Arizona university and wound up studying something with bit more risk. Which is the funniest thing, because like a lot of breakthrough vintners, it seems like law school was a burden for Phinney and those who now stress fermentation over litigation. There’s no contest, considering that it’s not difficult to see why the allure of winemaking is so prevalent through Orin Swift; a brand, if you can call it that, compounded in the middle and maiden names of Dave’s own parents. Whether he found inspiration from a college roommate, worked for Mondavi, or participated in the modus of ‘Opus,‘ the clarity of opulence seen in this small, but illustrious wine portfolio is quite remarkable. Although, as of late, the personality behind that imprisoned caricature I mentioned earlier, seems to be shackled in compliance, since those reeling from “Quintessa” fame have led it into submissive austerity. Still, most cannot believe that one of the most popular blends to date, is actually a collaborative project now. 
I would say we’re waiting for “The Liberator” but he just doesn’t sound cool enough.
Brian Maniotis
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team
Visit us online @: westchesterwine.com

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