| Elena Walch P.G. |
What’s your latest malefactor? Hmmm...does it have something to do with Pinot Grigio? Excuse my untimely rudeness, but there’s no escaping the fact that the stuff is being lawlessly bogarted. I can plainly see it now: Stink-eyed housewives that do not usually venture beyond the parallels of Santa Margherita say, “What does he mean?” Well, despite this slant objective of mine to talk about the things that bother me, we’ll just assume for the time being that I’m referring to all white wines in general. Why do I say this? Because North America has too long reveled in its ungrateful fixation for a varietal that has, in my opinion, not given anything back to its eager fan-base. If you only knew who P.G.’s forefathers were before it became Italy’s ‘La Aqua Seconda.’ Undetected by consumers, the little scapegrace’s parents are still lampooning as Pinot Noir. Shocking? No, but what is, might be the cultivar’s recent syndication in radio and television. Equally as alarming, we are compelled to be witnessed to the bearing-down of wine lists, and the corruption of hardworking matriarchs.
There is a solution though...it’s called Pinot Blanc...“Balderdash” you say! However, I am being serious though. It would seem odd, almost unpredictable of me to actually condone a relative spawn of a grape that I have very little respect for. Take it as a complement though, since I do not always disagree with things on the Grigio scale, I just happen to experience the same undue malaise for producers who emphasize a massive output.Don’t get me wrong, one of my favorite whites is that of Elena Walch, for which I would not soon forget its attractive balancing act of fruit and brightness, but alternatively, I’m trying to support an underdog here.
| Mission Hill Pinot Blanc |
“The Blanc” is your sure bet, whether or not you tend to go for the “Pinot Gris” that now underlies an eager host of Oregonian and Californian producers. I like it too, but let’s call it white, and not gray, so this way, we’re not developing any uncertainties here. Alsace has its fare share of Pinot Blanc, but it does not mean that Canada hasn’t been up to some helpful shenanigans. Mission Hill likens the grape to a somewhat heady, but not weight-laden white that suggests uber-ripe stone fruits and plashes of nectarine. If you’re dedicated to Thai cuisine, it’s a sure-fire directive to certain decadence. Want a Gris from France? More specifically, that somewhat Germanic part of the country in the Northeastern sector? Sure, look at Frederic Mallo’s label and wonder why there’s a jovial stork carrying a baby with a similar expression. It’s surname reads: “Special Delivery.” And why not ? It’s certainly not infantile, but suggests young, crisp apples and honeyed tree fruits.
I know Alsace is responsible for the majority of great Blancs, but it doesn’t mean there’s any less merit for the grape in Italy’s “I.G.T.” stronghold. Simply known as the “Bianco” in likable Pinot, its taking a little while for us to recognize its place in the domestic wine chiller. “Weisseburgunder” is also another item to be curious about, since German tourists may wonder why local wine shops have been somewhat lax in their assessment of how profitable it could be. I can see why, since most Gewurztraminers and plushy Rieslings are dominating a market that provides cheap, accessible wines that conform to our long-term obsession towards casement meats and fatty sausage.
Funny...there’s nothing like a Pinot Grigio for braising knockwurst.
Brian Maniotis
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team
Visit us online @: westchesterwine.com
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