Sunday, July 3, 2011

Campaign For Cannonau

Picco Del Sole
It’s a health thing right ? Regimenting, dieting, whatever the accursed terms may imply, there’s more than a fair percentage of people who treat wine as supplementary; but really, this kind of consumable is mandated for dining of course, but  I often gnash my teeth with a sort of angry smile when thinking about all the wrong reasons we “toast” to someone’s betterment. Does it actually pertain to longevity? Some would say yes, but  beyond the rude averages of alcohol percentage, is there room for something beneficial? I tend to owe a great deal of satire to many people whose ‘wining introspections’ are creating a thinning effect on their mind, body and soul. Wallet stuffings aren’t as generously refilled anymore as they used to be, so there’s a deeper problem with that too. But the fiduciary interests of the filled glass and the casually-minded sipping experts are not part of my chief concerns. More or less, what I do want to know, from being unduly skeptical, is whether or not this unaccredited ‘Wine-Your-Way Healthy” program is actually working for many Americans. More than ever, I quietly wonder if this is another pseudo-dietary health obsession, or an unorthodox, unconsciously optimistic flash-pan dynasty for serious drinkers. I’ll leave our dealings with Sgt. Swagger and Gen. Tipsy up to the U.S. government, but domestic consumers must understand the modesty and the advice required to fully experience what Sardinians have enjoyed for centuries.

I couldn’t be more emphatic in my use of “century” when Cannonau is on the table. Thanks to the grape and its payload of resveratrol, there’s ¾quite literally¾a heartfelt suggestion that many locals from Sardegna have been hiding a mysterious wine font; one mainly, that prevents human beings from experiencing the effects of aging. Civilians who hail from the island are not necessarily druidical in their secrecies, but some of them tend to live until their centenary years…amazing. Is it a particularly clandestine winemaking skill ?  Maybe so, considering they’re dealing with a varietal that has nothing but good promise for cardiovascular health and the pulmonary system. Despite their wine health, I think the lighter, feathersome quality to some of their applicable foodstuffs also illustrates a  lifestyle that most of us should observe. Hey look ! more fish, more phenols, and etcetera… it’s probably a good start, that is, once we eliminate the “parmigiano” and “panini” factor from the overall practice of domestic gluttony. Yes my friend, wine is in the glass, but the meat is on skewers, and the pasta ? It comes and goes depending on the  condimenti. So in lieu, there’s nothing too special to remark about this lone grape right?

I do not think so, because even as science can be hypothetical at times, there’s obviously something about Cannonau that goes beyond Bottarga and Fava Beans. With a history routed somewhere between Spain and its Garnacha vines, an exact DNA match-up is still hotly debated. Sounds fun more or less, because militant occupation of Sardinia was not altogether dismissed by the Spanish crown during the 15th century; seriously, do you really think they were about to showcase Tempranillo? Regardless, I have an intolerable interest for conquests of yore, past imperialisms and fruity reds…I think see a correlation forming here. Yes! show me a vintage that boasts of sparring fruits, but does not appear sappy in front of the commanding office of one’s
Argiolas Blend
palate. You could offer me a bold Grenache, but all I want is something to compliment a well-prepared, but crudely dressed stew of legumes and sausage. An accord between Cannelleni bean soup and the “2008 Picco Del Sole” would justify the red’s lean, fruit-tempered profile; ideally so, because I can’t imagine a “Super Tuscan” being the end-all choice for complimenting your starches.“Argiolas Costera” has a similar point of interest, with a five-percent splash of “Carignano” and “Bovale Sardo” to round-out an otherwise imposing, full-bodied remainder of Cannonau. For this, I have to hop completely off the bean wagon, but I would advise hungry buyers to pull off a “Manzo Alla Pizzaiola” in their kitchen. Trust me, it’s not some atypical high-wire trick for circus folk, but it’s a damn fine entrée for the culinary-minded.

My only gripe is, the lack of finding an organic and equally biodynamic vineyard that will strengthen the appeal of this wonderful cultivar. I have heard good things about Tannat, Cabernet and many other grapes which would contribute to our well-being, but I have to wonder why this island varietal is by far, the strongest medicine in the minds of oenologists everywhere. Unlike the study of astronomy, enological science is not based in assumption, but actually provides evidence that could answer an age-old conflict: “Can wine actually be good for you?” Yes, but in remembrance of the ancient Greco-Roman proverb: “Everything in moderation,” one could follow a more righteous aesthetic. Still, I continue to search for niceties that are exotic and indigenous, but as it is in most ethnic climates, at best, two glasses with dinner are all you need tonight.  

I’m not a medical practitioner, but I feel confident in my prescriptions.

-Brian K. Maniotis
 
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

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