Necessary Cognac.

Tesseron X.O.

Nervousness…It’s not the most common emotion that I’m associated with, but whenever it tends to resurface, It has something to do with Brandy. Pondering the reasons why, I remember labeling the well-known spirit as a cantankerous misuse of peculiar grapes. No matter what its assigned title may be, there seems to be several modes of uncertainty as to what makes Brandywine a Cognac. Or, more importantly, what defines the staple if there’s a reverse side to production standards? Is it amiable distillation pray tell ? Yes, of course, because it has to be modeled by vision, experience and law-abiding practices. However, there’s a stillborn quality to some brandies that only reflect public inebriation, or again, a subject of misuse when it’s the lifeblood of homemade Sangria. Though still acting its part, this aperitif for the masses is still working within the old rehashed sentimentalities and post-cheesecake notions of remorse. I mean, its functionality was popularized when Lobster Thermidor and Cobb Salads were kindred; but here, it had a more graceful presence in closing-out a business luncheon, or even a patio-side oyster expo. Sadly though, time has compromised its glistening, coppertone hue, leaving upended marquees and bottle tops pouring mellifluously into sewer drains, or monogrammed snifters. Highfalutin or not, we still adore this piece of bygone convention, but as history indicates, functions new or old, usually resemble an interplay between redefinition and confusion.

Ugni Blanc, Colombard and Folle Blanche usually dispel Cognac’s anonymity when questions arise about overall production, or its token varietals. Though Ugni Blanc is the most prevalent and highly esteemed grape, many others temper and accentuate the occasionally brash spirit. It’s a belligerent spectacle if anything, considering its140-proof stature; that is, before it receives a sensible dilution. Copper still pots are the primary vessel in which the high-alcohol spirit is cultivated; which after a secondary distillation, the “Eau De Vie”  is poured into wood casks for an ageing period which usually lasts about two and a half years in length. Many other craftsmen go beyond the requisitioned laws and utilize ageing techniques that stall a product’s release for decades to come. In a rundown, V.S. Cognac is a “Very Special” one, and “V.S.O.P” is a grandfatherly “Old Pale” version with an overall sense of charm and a knack for storytelling. Though there’s an “X.O.” it doesn’t mean “X-tra Octogenarian” exactly, but if you want it to be, there’s a different name, and a higher price to pay for it. In terms of age, the V.S. requires three years in wood, V.S.O.P; at least eight, and the X.O., can be stored for a minimum of eight years as well, but averages show that with twenty years or more, it becomes suitably decadent. Now, “Napoleon” is by no means unimportant in terms of labeling, but due to its close relation to X.O, the appeal is lost with me. Ah yes, but to parry the striking brandies from “Grand Champagne” ¾that’s aren’t exactly bubbly¾ is a mistake, since they are the best liaisons from a central sub-region of Cognac proper.              

Lautrec V.S.O.P

You might have heard that “Cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is Cognac,” yes that is true, but for the least expensive, there’s no appointing any kind of statuary differences in terms of taste. Even for the most “reasonably-priced” stuff, there’s an unwavering potential for ‘big-time’ producers to launch new products, but very little focus is kept on maintaining an old-world, artisanal standard. With a broad idea as to what makes a great Cognac, the usual names that have graced pubs and internet sidebars over the years, will not be mentioned. Sorry to deflate whatever hopes you had at profiling your liquor cabinet all-stars, but this is not the blog where I focus on entities suffering from Rocky Balboa’s syndrome. Fight me if you will, but there’s two artisans that could really tweak our misunderstandings. For instance, I always liked Tesseron X.O. (Lot *90) for it’s ethereal character. Implicit minerals, carry through to a dense profile that‘s laden with tree fruits. A solid, somewhat tannic frame is wonderfully checked by wild honey and candied nuts. For a $50 price tag, it’s a remarkable investment even if you’re a discriminating enthusiast. If you want to economize,  Lautrec’s V.S.O.P is a great alternative to other cognacs which would have an otherwise polarizing tenacity. Tannin is sparse, but a significantly pure backdrop of stone fruit and crushed pebble is enticing. Spiced bread and ginger follow through to a suave, placid finish. Roust me for being too thrifty, but if you have your vices, thirty bucks will give way to euphoria.

I could have said something about the history of brandy, with its shadowy conscriptions dating back to the ancient Middle-East, or, I could have out-spun the popularity of Cognac itself, by bringing up Spain’s role in writing another chapter in the story of this eponymous spirit…but I didn’t. Maybe I should save tales of enthusiastic, drunken pirates and archeological findings for another post. I left out key information pertaining to “Petit Champagne” and disregarded the pertinence of “Fin Bois” and “Bon Bois” so as to leave some of the terms up to readers. The “BNIC” would probably be nipping at my ankles for that, but let them. As it was thought by me at one time, brandywine was nothing short of a low-grade fuel for poets and swordfighters; so in tandem, I leave this aesthetic and any following opinions for your own personal debates.

All I know, is that debauchery tastes like Cognac.


-Brian K. Maniotis
 
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

Visit us online @: westchesterwine.com