The SxSW of France, That is.

Sarrabelle Gaillac

Say “Sud-Ouest !” just before jutting-out your pointed finger…and then, make the aforementioned exclamation with a hollow French accent. Emphasize the syllables and do not by any sense of parody, put stress on the vowels. You’re in due preparation for the unseemly dialect found in Southwestern France. Hold on though, because if you’re a trust-fund baby whose looking to spend some time abroad during your Sophomoric years, this might not be the place for you. Or is it ? Let’s be certain, Paris may be a better paradise for the typical student, but it has become a life staple; one particularly, that is only outdone by the fading interest of moving to Williamsburg, Portland, or Baltimore…which is more like an exile if you ask me. Half of my graduating class can still be found chewing Marconas in Valencia, Madrid, or Barcelona, but dashing for Spain, more or less, is a more cheeky exodus; and yet, still temporary. Odd though, since there’s more for post-grads to accomplish in the States, but personally, there’s more for me someday, in the village of Monbazillac. Sure, student tourists aren’t exactly what you would call unpopular in retrospect, but for those who brochure their way though the dirt routes of Bordeaux, this nearby region is a rucksacker’s pit of lamentation. If you do visit; for once, do not break-out the Nikons and disturb the peace. Sure, surround your focal points with wine …but do not, of all things, spoil the emblazoned setting for others who refuse the idyllic, post-digital memories of amateur camerawork.

Usually, Southwestern France is on the lack of itineraries when it comes to overseas ventures. Granted, the

allure of our destinations rest mainly on expert cities like Rome and Athens, but I say, forget them for awhile and don’t fall into the trap. Despite the virtual tangents that a Burgundy, or even a Rhone can produce, there are the least-visited appellations like Cahors, Madiran and Gaillac stemming from a region just south of

Gautoul Cahors

Bordeaux proper. You’ll find Malbec, Duras, Braucol, Fer and Tannat grapes growing here with the typical Merlot and Cabernet waning by. Some say, the varietals are one thing, but the wine is altogether simple, uninteresting and puerile. I doubt it, because if my starch-laden, casein-enhanced diet has proven anything to me, it’s that I can’t have goat cheese and croustilot campaigning for a Haut-Medoc, Nuit-Saint-George, or even a reasonable Côtes-Du-Rhône.

I would begin with “Gaillac,” an atypical red, showing notes of reglisse, patterns of candied fruit, and implicit gaminess. Usually we’re treated to Duras and Fer here, but sometimes, Syrah and Cabernet can exchange impacts like middleweight prizefighters. But a piece of advice though, see “Domaine Sarrabelle” for the post-knockout coverage. Think you’ve had a plum of a Malbec? “Cahors” has something to outshine the gleaming faces of Argentine benefactors. This little French appellation questions what the grape has been doing all this time in South America, when it could be producing notes of espresso, spice and stewed black fruits. A friend named “Gautoul” is happy to share these pleasantries.Perhaps the only appellate that has due influence over a buyer’s remorse, is “Madiran,” considering it’s lackluster youth. Even the pricier installments tend to leave us with a collector’s item, or a handful of impatient incubations. If you know “Tannat” then you have a good mind to lay these down for a couple of years. If blended with one of the two cultivars in the Cab family, or if you decide on something containing “Fer Servadou,” you’re nursing something with a brooding lust for grilled breads and dark fruit confit. Consider “Chateau Laffont” as the maternity ward for your next ‘wine child.’ 

Laffont Madiran

Whites? Not something I would fail to notice, because of the rich undulations they suggest. Jurançon produces wine of plushy excesses and fruit-inspired roundness, while equally harmonizing its dry whites with Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng and Corbu. Remember the mentioning of Monbazillac earlier ? Think Sémillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle. I wouldn’t disagree for one minute that tropical fruits, cinnamon, honeysuckle and melon show through completely. Blancs that hail from the “Buzet” and “Bergerac,” AOC’s are worth a little more cellar time, but oddly enough, I see myself returning to Gaillac again; this time, I’ll be spelunking for golden gems.          

Normally, I go far beyond reasonable when it comes to Vins Des Cuisines, but since it is my most agreeable vice, I continue to report on them with a sense of partisanship only seen in politics. Admittedly, I begin to wonder if all my significant rants about food wine and restaurant touring are in some way myopic, but my opinions seem to be influenced by a festoon of winemakers who pay service to my own gluttony. I did not want to do this again to my readers, but like a child at a fireman‘s fair, I cannot resist saying: “Again! Again!” Somehow, this lawfully-binding wine tour of mine has me taking rides all over the place; the trips are Gallic, but again…that’s me.

In no specific order, there's an odd connection between France, myself, human beings, food and wine. 

-Brian K. Maniotis
 
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

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