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| Di Giulio Cab |
I'm the poetic type...so what ? Regardless, I often abridge even myself even in the continuity of all things communicative. Do you see? I'm just as eagerly doing it now. Maybe I am somewhat lovelorn in the presence of good verse these days, but if all literary outlets become loathsome in the end, I guess I'll keep reading something else. It's a keen bet that modern poetry is incapable of creating systemic revolutions, but when authors still romanticize about "How to Light a Cigarette" or, build their stanzas through email subject lines, my prefrontal cortex erupts with brain lava; from then-on, I generate something a bit more unsettling through my own choice of words. Really, I begin to wonder if there's enough clout to this idea of "Modernism" when it refers to anything of human construct. Some say, this timely aesthetic is nothing but an unorganized mapping of the last hundred years of human development...I'm given to wonder about that. The better word might be "Contemporary" because it relates to the immediate present. Granted, I have an awful lot of sentiment to recall when mentioning something antiquated, or historically obscure, but compare something artful then, with something of the same ilk today. Do you see a big difference? Maybe this is why most people shuffle their thoughts from inbox-to-outbox when I dribble about popular winemaking versus the unfashionable, geriatric kind. In that respect, not even the glowing consciousness of our youth, seems to have enough curiosity to fully understand the old-world methods and tribulations needed to create something genuine. Which is why, if I could traverse through time and space, the one invention that I could have long-since obliterated, would have been the "Easy-Bake Oven." Not because it's iconic, but for the argument that it may have promoted the dynamism behind American laziness and insatiability. Fortunately, good wine is never a bastion for remorseful treats; insofar, that you have actually done some of your homework. Still, the "Good Ol' Stuff" that competes with the brand-new, impulsively bought, but we don't know why kinda stuff,” appears stalemated in the battle of values. Vintners seem to know what they're doing on either side, but is there a better choice between one or the other ? When in doubt, do we just digress and purchase either bottle? The end of countless queries about being choosy, rests on the definitions that describe what "New-World" and "Old-World" means in terms of overall flavor, profile, nuance and our final impressions.
Most will wince when I say, "This is old-world winemaking," because it's an eidetic run of the mind that recalls a butchery of bad images. Realistically, consumers see these products as bloody, gamy and sinewy; having if possible, a considerable presence of earthiness, tannins and acidity. In fact, some people scowl when I mention "New-World" wine because they've familiarized themselves with a product that unleashes more fruit than a produce lab. I won't account for this ideal as being true or false, but what I could often conclude, is that there's a stark form of opposites to winemaking methods from past to present. Some feel that the olden style of winemaking, shows a little more finesse of fruit, and can generally have more earthen aspects. They have a immutable sense of terroir, given the fact that overseas vineyards have existed for quite some time. Coveted soils and centenarian rootstocks act as the elemental viaducts that most upstart wine regions haven‘t been privileged to. That is of course, not always the defining factor, but some of the vines range from a couple years in age, to something that mocks a traditional human lifespan; usually, 40-to-120 is considered “acceptable” for those "older vines." Basically, aged roots enhance tactile experiences with minerals, a more focused presence of fruit and just about everything else that a good vintner will diligently impress upon you; yes, earthiness and tannin do make way. Too true, but people seem to clamor over a wide variety of wines from the nouveau monde, being that they show an intensity and purity of fruit significantly different than what much older appellations have. In America, we're a bit more patriotic towards creating something phenolic; maybe that's just the theme of western methodology, but even on the reverse, we tend to revel in the pursuit of science, commerce and the embodiment of ripeness. With alot of merit, wine-tech has a fortunate way of delivering to us, approachable, reasonably-priced reds and whites; saying the most, these have a bull’s-eye penchant for steak-a-thons and lobster-socials.
Let's see...If I could describe any situation where this "supposed" intensity of fruit occurred, it would be with a Cabermet that is a bit pricey, but always a good nominate for the delicious idolatry of post-European
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| Z-T Pic ST. Loup |
winemaking.
Marco Di Giulio has a interesting proprietary
Cab that outshines some of the high-yield, well-marketed reds that have loomed over the Cali wine trade since...forever. It is by every means, multi-dimensional, but the draw lies not in tannin, but a girth of fruit, burnt cedar, cured meat and one of the most profound underpinnings of glycerin; a.k.a, sugar and alcohol. From its $77 dollar tag, you can taste the generosity of which, only the United States could be capable. In counterpoint, you could very well say, that the Coteaux Du Languedoc has all we want in a humble, more price-friendly style that eschews the conventional rusticity; maybe, something like a Montepuliciano from Abrruzzi. I wouldn't go that far to remark upon their similarities, because there are not too many…I'm just emphasizing a point. I like the
Domaine Zumbaum-Tomasi as my
Pic St. Loup, due to its assertive, but not ever-present tannins and the equality of darker, but also, more carmine-colored fruits. Woodland herbs and some traces of nut oils are by some stretch, a realization of forgotten, or at least reassuring notions of nuance from eras past. An Andrew Jackson and three Washingtons’ or so, will get you there. In lieu, my time and my pelf are at least, gateways for reasonable, provocative wine.
To be honest, it's not the money, or some altercation between steaks and sizzles, but there are if anything, much more choices now. The nature of winemaking seems not ruled by classic distinctions all the time, but also newly appointed practices that are somewhat redefined by human evolution and the suitable technologies. I will not say if the newborns, or the olds are either of my favorites, because there are no reasonable milestones to mark any one of them as "better." I tend to think about this at the risk of being overwhelmed, but the truth behind the game, is to find out who is doing what, why it's interesting and whose tastes are victim to certain coercions.
I don't know why, but our palate has been talking about us for some time.
-Brian K. Maniotis
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team
Visit us online @:
westchesterwine.com
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