| Peirano Chardonnay |
I’m like you...not in the the most personal sense, but in a more relative frame of mind. There’s no need to feel confused by that statement, because in the end, isn’t the basic human world dependent on matching interests and direct communion with others? Perhaps, it’s the idea of comparison which helps us to understand exactly why we enjoy things en mass. At times, the appeal of something standardized is what leads us to share in that imminent bonding that’s similarly found at your annual Sci-Fi convention, or a local comic-con. Whether or not that makes sense, is up to you, but all I’m trying to say, is that I’ve found a fairly new piece of equipment capable of dismantling some of the uncertainties seen in that all-too-opinionated concept of personal enjoyment.
Listen, you foredefeated members of the “A.B.C.” crowd! You don’t have to like Chard to be a part of a club, and I don’t suspect you’re going to dislike this post because I’m talking about something which you probably have no interest in whatsoever; in time, you will...yes, in time. Just in case you are still uncertain about my plight, that whole abecedarian acronym I mentioned in the first sentence, focuses on the “Anything But Chardonnay” mindset. I can understand why a lot of these people dislike the stuff, but then again, if you find the right one, then who is to say that you really belong to such a clandestine group such as they? I have had many a doubtful and remorseful bash with this particular type of grape, but not as much as some would think. I would normally advocate going with a youthful, but loamy "Aligoté" but, guess what? It's the same grape according to Burgundians.
I generally do not like it, but If someone is willing for one minute to suggest something contrarian to an overtly-oaked, overtly-buttered profile that happens to be a staple within many winemaking cultures, I’m all for it. California has been privy to a bad succession of repeals with Chardonnay, but there’s always hope nonetheless, since even they have blockbusting results as of late. There seems to be a pipsqueak revolution in the State, where less fruity, more balanced wines are being created. I’m sick of too much malolactic fermentation, and I think it’s a preternatural cop-out for certain vignerons who have less time to work and more time to play.
| Roulot Aligoté |
If the Chard is all butter, all spice, all apples and pears, then too much manipulation has occurred. Mutually exclusive, if there’s nothing but white tea, lemons, steel and dried cheese, then there’s been little effort to complete the winemaking equation. With “Malolatic,” you might as well have gone to the movies, because If you want popcorn with all the trimmings, then don’t waste your time buying a bottle for the cost of a ticket and some puffed kernels. I have a mission though, considering that you probably don’t have the gumption to do it by now, try Peirano Estate’s claim to a bright, but tantalizing version of that one white we may all come to love one day. It’s got cinnamon, golden apple, a little oak and enough pear to keep you from feeling like you had a nightmare in the city of Anjou. I enjoyed it without contempt for once, and it feels pretty good. it’s not brazen, and not limp, but you would be happy to know, it implies the particular balance only found, on average, within a 4,000-to-5,000 case production. Yikes! With a figure like that, it’s hard to estimate exactly why it costs so little. It’s also one of the prudent types, having enough vigor for summer and just the right amount of clout for wintertime pork roasts and stews consisting of white meat and legumes.
I like a lot of white wine, but the problem is in most cases, is that I get a lot of Chard thrown at me, and it hurts. At this point, it’s worse than being hit by a Cab, and worse than me using puns to extract a point. At least I can be content about something that drinks well with a grilled bratwurst or any protein slathered in garlic sauce. I don’t mind having the most notorious white wine at my table, but I get a little nervous when It creeps up on me like an obsessed ex-girlfriend, or a para-militant. The grape can be managed, and it belies elegance every so often, but it seems to have been in a rut with those who want pure power instead of fine tailoring. I really can’t say if most people would gravitate to Chardonnay’s new theme in California, or basically, France’s eldest one, but the truth is in taste and sometimes, the harvest year.
I guess, now would be a good time to plug Peirano’s 2011 vintage.
Brian Maniotis
Wine Warehouse
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