A Tolerance For Pinot.

Three Rocks Pinot Noir

The problem is, that most people would sell their soul for a good one. I completely understand, and don’t get me wrong, I can see why. Though whatever entity you might have bartered with, it still might not be the best decision you’ve made. I can divulge information on several persons who might be very well interested in exchanging goods and services for your spiritual immortality, but you have your dignity don’t you? It’s fine, really. There are plenty of good people who have felt downtrodden by bad Noir, and I am one of them, but then again, there’s a constance of “difficult” wines pushed on me and I don’t always like it either. The point is, you might have seen the “devil’s grape” and came out unscathed, but it’s likely you’re still shaken up by the sight of hellfire and pitchforks.

I say “Tolerable” because so many people have the burden of knowing that Pinot Noir is fickle, sometimes unreasonable, and altogether, a large investment teetering towards crapshoot status. If you’ve ever owned a vineyard, then this is nearly unquestionable, and there’s reasonable proof that you’re not always getting what you pay for whether you’re making it, or drinking it. I have to point out that the cost is sometimes unbearable, and there’s a terrible feeling of wrongdoing when you look at a bottle amorously and it doesn’t quite reveal the same expression. There are usually two good reasons why this happens and it’s not always our fault, but the problem lies in that all-too familiar problem with money. 

P. Andre CNV

I have said too many times, that people who set limitations, or price brackets on what they spend, tend to do the same for Pinot Noir, and it can wind up being a crisis, and not the festivity it should be. Over and over, I have said, with testament, that it pays to throw a couple of extra clams into the pot in order to see what the grape has to offer us, but non-believers always seem to partake in the severe realization that it was good advice they should have mindfully utilized. I’m not saying others are wrong, but when you look at the consequences of having a grape that’s been equally manipulated as much as it’s been touted, the theory is, that you might want to do your research on it. 

Pinot doesn’t like climatic disparity, and it strives for equilibrium in a world where the concept of “good cheese” is represented by doling-out wafer thin platforms of underaged curd, pressing it into familiar shapes and packaging the results into quadric folds of flimsy, translucent plastic. California has a bad reputation for mass producing, but then again, they are still part of the solution when it comes to better Noir. Most of the time, the major complaints from enthusiasts are, the overt manipulation and the lack of complexity due to a lack of induction from rich, loamy soils and mature grapevines. For buyers, the wine just isn’t as good, or interesting enough. 

The answer is, to find one that has the quintessential nuance and balance that one would look for. Generally, your Pinot is meant to be medium-bodied, finessed and at most, a little smoky, or earthy depending on the ritual of winemaking. Burgundy has some higher-priced entries, and they can spin concentric circles of good wine around California, because they have the terroir for it. That’s why I liked Pierre Andre’s Cote De Nuits Villages, which at $22 bucks, had a bevy of raspberry elements interwoven through a platform of black fig, juicy cherry and wild sweet herbal elements. Oh, and hints of mineral no less...Delicious! However, Three Rocks, has shown some clout in recent years with their 2009 Arroyo Grande which sources their fruit from the acclaimed Talley Vineyards sites. For just under twenty dollars, It’s a little more fruit-driven, but the outcome is one of melty black cherry and sandalwood notes, compiled within a haughty frame of dark, black berries and Darjeeling tea elements.            

As the problem persists, I remind everyone that the positive points of this grape, are far greater than the cherubic little name that the French gave it long ago. You would think something that literally translates to: “Black Pine” would sound cute and harmonious, but it isn’t. It takes a lot of work to cultivate and the results are sometimes not worth the physical and mental strain of eager winemakers. I would sooner acquire something that is more generous, more extracted for the money, but I have to admit there’s a certain versatility to a good Pinot Noir, that can pair with everything from pasta, fish, pork and lean cuts of red meat. Granted, not every bottle is expensive, but the aesthetic is, that you should really consider taking out a couple dollars from of the swear jar that you made, to pay for a better Pinot. Or else, you could be reeling through a vicious cycle where you curse bad wine and wind up losing even more money. 

We all love that. 

Brian Maniotis

Wine Warehouse

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