Why Tokaji ?

Royal Tokaji

Some consumers verbally address their issues with indigenous wine, but do not go beyond any of their unseemlier, one-sided predilections. This is wrong in some ways, and xenophobia appears to have muted any attempt for us to really understand our taste buds, or, just as likely, our human friends from across the way. Whether or not they’re making, distributing, or allowing their presentations to persist, even the imperialist soft drinks usually fall short of that good-old American fascination with beer, soda and eventually, more beer. Not only that, but for my defiant, but topical mention of  “CA-CA-CA-AB-ER-NET” as a singular beverage, increases the potential of having my nose sliced open by gangsters. Likely, if you’ve ever seen Jack Nicholson in the movie “Chinatown,” people along the Californian coast are not worth upsetting. As I fear, even the most lukewarm, or more snidely cynical reference to our most economically polarizing varietal is not worth nasal bloodletting. Not to say it’s bad, because it’s not; if anything, the wine is great, but it has to do with a sense of myopia that leads us only to Cab, or some of that dastardly impure sweet stuff. Here's your relief: 

I have a proposition though, if you want something acclaimed, then Tokaji might be the one thing providing an open forum to producers who are not in the Italian, French, or Spanish winemaking union. Forget pronouncing the letter “J” though, because the thing is, it’s from Hungary, and is often very ripe, with an eminent light amber color. Usually, there’s a whole feudalistic system to the grapes that can makeup the wine, but the “Azsu” dons the largest crown compared to the Muscat Lunel, Furmint, Harslevelu and Oremus varietals that act as blending agents. Though no matter what goes in, there are enough ways to compose a dry, or that traditionally sweet category that everyone loves. Yes, there’s an adoration for it, and there’s a sort of cultish obsession similarly seen in the annual mad dash for BBQ boneless rib sandwiches, but it’s not quite the same. I do happen to understand the appeal, as a counter-culture has found excellent productions for less than they would normally spend on highly-expensive artisan wines from everywhere else.             

Even UNESCO has an entire page dedicated to the wine, the region and just about all the information one would need to start thinking about planning vacations and excursions. The area in Hungary, where it’s made, is actually a world-heritage site and has it’s endorsements. France’s Louis XV was known to have a soft spot for the stuff as it sort of tickled him to think of the possibility of non-French winemaking as being somewhat culpable and worth placing to the royal lips. It is, I know, because “Royal Tokaji” is surely feudal as the name implies, and I follow in its servitude. It’s not always the most reasonable, but when thinking about the cost, the presence of peach cobbler, beeswax, honeycomb, spice-roasted hazelnuts, caramel candy, white truffle and tousled hay, are worth experiencing  again and again. Sure, there are others, but you don’t have to drink it all in the span of two nights, so the difference in this ultra-rich wine is that of non-fortification, which means no spirits are used in the ungainly proofing and endowing of the wine. Also, It will last, a re-capping is necessary, but you can enjoy it for much longer than the conventional white, which is even better news.  

Unperceived, most people think they’re getting a dessert wine, but that’s for the suitably corrected to figure out. It’s really an anytime sort of libation, but doesn’t mean it could not benefit from a properly filled ice bucket. The idea is to find a Tokaji that would not compel you think about being interned within a horse stable; however, that goes for just about everyone right? What I mean, is that most people will argue the point of having to deal with a little musk, or a bit of barnstable elements to enjoy it, but that’s not always the case. I think at most, you might experience a hit of chanterelle every so often, but nothing that would be too bucolic on the palate. If it is, then I would seriously recommend going to your local library and getting some Hungarian phone listings, and call the winemakers.  

Because if you don’t believe me, then you can always talk to them.

Brian Maniotis

Wine Warehouse Team

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