Mentioning Mencia

Castro Ventosa

Who doesn’t like Spanish wine? Relatively speaking, I do not think there’s anyone I know who doesn’t. Whether or not you’re sick of the Ribera Del Duero, or feel a little chagrined about Rioja, there seems to be new, sometimes emergent D.O.’s that have our heads on a constant swivel. It’s difficult at times, but to some, Spain’s winemaking regions and various denominations really require no educational coursework to properly understand, or potentially absorb. Not to say that the winemaking, or the geography of the country is any less complex, but various search-engines can make you succinctly aware of all it has to offer. Nonetheless, there’s always that one grape which follows in the spectacle of newly officiated winemaking laws and constructs. A question though, does it make the experience of actually obtaining the wine a bit more fun and a little more challenging? 

No, not necessarily. For a decade, the Bierzo region seemed incognito and practically abandoned for a proper rediscovery. Once, a former mining outpost for Roman legions, the same mineral soils that had once suited ancient purposes, are now monumental vine plots, serving those who wish to excel in a contemporary craft. The “Mencia” grape has proven to be a good suitor in an attempt to reclaim the beauty and fertility of a place that also has a profuse collection of handsome castles. Yes...castles. 

Bierzo 

But why follow this staple varietal? More often, it’s a great alternative to other wines that are too robust for words; specifically, ones that are usually too full, too earthy, leaving people to feel like they’ve overdone something. What I mean, is that you can sit down to a hearty stew composed of various proteins, onions, stock and tomatoes, and still have enough room to sip-down a wine that won’t overcompensate via tableside. They’re usually labeled: “Joven” meaning, “young” and they have no problem grasping the adjective. Generally, the idea of black, brambly fruits and petite red berries are emphasized, but not the last thing you’ll see on the palate. There’s a good chance that this underdog grape has kinship in Cabernet Franc, but science does not raise the question of a direct equivalent. 

With the vintage not being an issue, Castro Ventosa seems to know exactly how adaptable Mencia is. With plashes of black-raspberry, redcurrant and crisped mint, the palate is not without a genuine opportunity. For good reason, the scintillating spiciness furthers this idea and keeps the wine at a very interesting pace on the finish. Not particularly bad for something that is considered such a juvenile, but not to worry, there’s nothing erratic, irresponsible and ignorant about this kid in particular. Others are sometimes emphatic about red fruits and a more substantial body, but this Mencia is kept in check, and would probably be a nicer alternative to rosé during the springtime, when lighter roasts, mild cheeses and seasonal fruits. 

When in doubt, I usually reach for Spanish wine, which may sound a bit myopic, but there’s a tremendous value most of the time, and it shows. Depending where you shop, the the reach of the country’s best upcoming varietals are usually found in its select regions. Bierzo just happens to be one of the most exciting in my opinion, but really, don’t discount the others...please. The one thing that‘s imperative, is to actually try it, despite popular breakthroughs within the common wines of Priorat and Jumilla. I like those too, but I would at least like to think of the better intentions for I have for myself and more importantly, my readers. 

Ribera Del Guadiana anyone? Maybe next time. 

Brian Maniotis

Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

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