Boxing With It.

Vina Borgia Garnacha

I’m not against it. Though, let us give real definition to that resounding “No!” this time, and let the incisively discriminating critics say all they can about one of the most disregarded containers in wine culture. It should not be, that the poor, dessicated creatures that sometimes belie our overgrown thirsts should be regarded with silent indifference. Isn’t flavor a primary interest to begin with? I’m not talking about “flavor” as some indication of  taste pinpointed by how we interpret stuff coming from a bag; (which I will get to later) but we, almost in constance, interpret things as good, bad, mediocre, or gratifying for nothing other than reasonless envy. In addition, we’ve all heard the lamenting wino talk about how everything is pure juice after the first glass...I’m nearly sure that you’ve heard that too often. However, if you’ve been there, you’ve also listened carefully to Europe, whose reliance on spouts and cardboard have overturned our perception of drinkability and the advantage of portables. 

     

I actually found that I enjoy “boxed stuff.” Hold on though, I’m not talking about the old times, or those conventionalist idioms where people use phrases like: ‘Oh, That Crap?’ I’m talking about the provocative issue someone can raise when he or she can actually verbalize their experiences in post-adolescent weening and rid themselves of all that “Ba-Ba” talk. Maybe I’m too optimistic, but I do not think there’s any reason to hate, or dumb-down my rectangular, square and sometimes, cylindrical friends. Rather, you should accept them for their mirth and realize it’s all about what they offer individually. I prefer in most cases, to focus on their presence at the table, so I can feel safe dining with them and not embarrassing myself in front of my wife. That’s just the thing, most of the palpable, friendly wines in the world are basically anything that can cause intellectual stimulation and still be practical enough, in this case, to be pulled from the convenience of a kitchen cabinet, or refrigerator. 

Remember, there’s a trick that is normally performed by smart buyers who know that the “producer” is the keystone in marking those likable wines. It’s as if you could walk between Johnson, Frank, or Bennett Family, and know which one is going to be the most hospitable to you. It’s the same modus operandi that’s useful when choosing something outside the boundaries of cork and glass. No fear in it either, because there are some producers who are much more obvious in their mission to provide the good stuff. I like Vina Borgia a lot ! and I am not being insincere. In truth, I not only love it because it’s the table wine at my favorite restaurant, but it actually has some depth, character and fruit. Apparently, the joking has been directed at me for a long time now, because, yes, they do actually bottle their vintages too, but I have no complaints in tandem. It’s %100 Garnacha, that would make it Spanish of course, and is nicely cursive to the jammy red cherry that stacks up against a light, but spicier mid-palate with a straightforward finish. 

In case you were wondering, yes it is good enough to call a house wine whether your eating at home, or sitting down to a frito misto somewhere else. In case you still think otherwise, there’s a vintage: 2010 to be exact, and it’s in a 3-liter box instead of one that gives you an enormous five. I do not recommend however, treating it like an artisan’s lifelong vision. There is certainly some complexity, but remember, the idea is that you’re still paying $20 for much more wine and not the usual 750ml. To say there’s also something more romantic about hearing a spout pop, rather than a cork doing the same, is a bit interesting; a concept, in time, that will probably never fully catch on. For all that’s available in bottle-form, I tend to treat guests with something other than cardboard and plastic. I can’t do it all the time though, so a box is more than the right idea for those who fall for my old tricks. Try comparing the two, but don’t show your friends the containers, you’ll have a good time seeing how everything matches up. 

Just don’t give anything away.

Brian Maniotis

Westchester Wine Warehouse

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