Full-Bodied Cinema.

Susana Balbo Malbec

Quite progressively, films about wine have adhered to public interest. That is, most people can tend to associate good cinema as being equivocal to great vintages. We’ve all been placed in front of the screen, holding the modernism of winemaking and its contemporary satires, like telescopes filled with Burgundy…am I being too poetic here ? Ok, that would be a fair estimate, but honestly, how many of you tend to leave the theatre with “wine lip” over the contours of your eyelids?  Now I’m being too surreal…Forget that, but above all, remember that moviemaking in this sort of culture, is not as popular per se, as the interest of a romantically charged, action-comedy. Genial, but somewhat dumb in portrayal, moviemaking in this respect have nearly as much farcical and insipid brands of honesty that you would see in “family-oriented” commercials about household chemicals. Forgive me again, for appearing a bit discontented, but somewhere beneath this writing hobby of mine, exists an stodgy movie critic with a visceral hatred of wasted talent. Really, you should have been witnessed to the reaming I gave such celluloid gems as: “Rock N’ Roll Frankenstein” and the second installment in the “BEEF” series, that were by all definition, honorary failures.

Write this off as you will, all I can say is that my top-rated “Wine Film” in actuality, has nothing to do with the stuff. Ever see “To Catch a Thief ?” You know, the picture where a lustrous Gary Grant portrays a suave, yet reformed, Jewel Thief who overturned his past to become an Occupational Vintner? Well, it gets better…that

Paul Hobbs Cabernet

is, when he attempts to clear his name by uncovering the identity of an effluent robber, who if at all, may land Mr. Grant in the hoosegow again if he doesn‘t clear himself of recently alleged charges. Why do I love this film? It’s because the timely rarity in which the characters enjoy a supposed piece of winemaking craft. There are two scenes in particular that leave me flummoxed. What the hell is he drinking in that one part, where he and Grace Kelly are whimsically sipping a deep, carmine-colored entry whilst overlooking the famed Côte D’Azur? Also, when character H.H. Hughson, played by John Williams, casually remarks, vis-à-vis the estate, about the specifics of good taste. Following through, both Williams and Grant, imbibe something that resembles a Sancerre Rouge. I probably won’t know for sure what the varietals were in this lifetime, but these are the things that prod me beyond waking.

If you want stark reality, “El Camino Del Vino,” or, “The Ways of the Wine,” is a docudrama awaiting release in North America, that puts notables Like Susana Balbo and Sommelier, Charlie Arturaola into focus.

Montelena Char

Stymied by the loss of his palate, Mr. Arturaola  seeks to regain what he feels is lost; that is, by accessing other gurus such as, Michel Rolland, while seeking the help of medical professionals and convening to the embrace of his immediate family. All this takes place during the “Masters of Food and Wine” event in Argentina, where the unconventional plotline starts churning. I heard “Paul Christopher Hobbs” is starring in the film too…somehow I don’t think he’s representing the unequivocal “Crossbarn” fame that the vintner is commonly associated with, but I wonder if that's worth any bit of snickering.    

Perhaps the one thing that chides me in the morning, is the fact that people tend to treat “Sideways” and “Bottle Shock” as the game-winners in this brand of cinema. No, this is not the case, mainly because Californian juice has evolved far from what certain filmmakers have been willing to evoke on-screen. Chateau Montelena’s diligent climb to the stardom of west-coast winemaking, has been portrayed with cheeky exaggerations and strangely enough, has appeared recessively underplayed at times. I will admit though, the vineyards still churn-out fantastic Chard and Cab, but I would take the potency of character analysis out of  Bill Pulman’s hands for once. I mean, Sideways is a great movie, but hoards of Merlot dodgers and Pinot enthusiasts still continue on divergent paths. One person, from having watched the film, will undoubtedly quash Merlot, when other fans will bask in its comedic quips while casually sipping, what they feel, is a “soulful” Pinot Noir. It’s a symptom of movie-going cultures that have left us with a sickening form of sentimentality that’s too far removed from the vine.

Better films have been made…the Mock-u-mentary “Corked,” left us with a good enough satire of what goes on inside and out of America‘s vine lots. Sardonic, but open-minded to the efforts of domestic craftsmanship, the film illustrates a world dominated by everyone from potential Plonk Salesmen, obsessive Vignerons and superfluous egomaniacs. All of which, unsuccessfully scrabble for the highly anticipated, “Golden Harvest Award.” Funny, but not hokey by any means, it nearly showcases our wine cultures’ real-world empiricisms, while celebrating the modesty of vintners considered to be somewhat off-beat. On the other hand, If you have a taste for blood, try “Mondovino,” a film which profiles the idyllic evils of mass-marketing and the disassociated CEO’s that operate beyond the helm of agriculture.

Portrayal is one thing, but the best film tends to be the one that coats the interior of my wineglass...

-Brian Maniotis

 Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

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