Prone To The Rhône

Cayron Gigondas

I admit, there is an abundance of potential when you examine human malaise…The overall sense of listlessness, boredom and likelihood of disenchantment, tends to evolve into something objective; with the right sense of inactivity, people may eventually find wine, or something like it, that is simply “better.” I think you might already understand, but scribble me as you will, I am a figure who expects too much from vignerons, consultants, gurus, agronomists and etcetera. I have no reasonable penchant for even the most practical tools in winemaking, but I am, if anything, someone who ungainly petitions for what I know people will enjoy. Some say, I’m nothing short of a muse with an unregistered trademark for palate-profiling. Or maybe, one of few men who wade in a basin of crushed grapes, trying to suspend the notion that true varietals usually reveal three primary, but equally profound nuances. I can’t say for sure, but only theoretically and subjectively, that this is a really crazy ideal I’ve focused on. However, what I can tell you, is that with a quick swirl of my head, I shake the misunderstandings from out of my psyche and realize, “Hey wait, I love Rhône  Valley Reds !” Sorry for the lack of focus…I’m kind of going through a tough time lately with the acronym “GSM” I just don’t know how to unlock the vocabulary words this time around.

Maybe it was the Liberty-Lauber Imports Expo earlier this week, that led me to believe in my true lust for the regional goodies stemming from southern France. I think it played a large part in realizing how far production has come, or has not, for some producers in the Rhône Valley. Generally, everything at the from Châteneuf-Du-Pape, to the ever-popular Côtes-Du-Rhône, were unimpressive, despite the Valley’s long history of producing bold, heavily extracted entries that are practically Francophone in personality. Even the well-suited, 2007, 2009 vintages seemed lacking in complexities; more or less, they appeared finessed to the point of being meek and under-wrought. Though somehow, ratings were not any where near cumulative to their potential quality; more so, because 90s-to-95s seemed inappropriate even for producers who stressed “youthfulness” and “balance” in bottles young and old. Even younger, “cellar-worthy” upstarts did not appear showy enough to become future icons. It almost had the feeling of being in a Parfumerie, where the only thing permeating the air, are torrents of angry customers lashing-out over the harnessing of “human pheromones” being masked as popular fragrance. Moreover, It is why I tend to leave “wine ratings” as ill-regarded, because of the myriad of educated decisions one can make...something that can be misleading if you ever happen to feel wrong in your guesswork.
   
What I can say, is that historically, Rhône  Valley wines are powerful, nearly athletic bits of interest that tend

Beaucastel CDP

not to be the investment hogs that hail from other regions like Bordeaux or Burgundy. Keenly affordable in comparison, they have some of the most  salient savory and sweet elements that you may find in true winemaking. Depending on the appellation, or regional specialty, the principal “Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre grapes play prominent roles, while Cinsault, Carignan and Counoise follow in the curtails of the first three varietals. Syrah dominates the North where Côte-Rôtie is made, whereas in the Southern Rhône , Grenache is usually the largest key in the “GSM” factor when producing Châteneuf-Du-Pape, Gigondas, or Vacqueyras. Personally, I can’t decide half the time which appellation produces my favorite, but what I do aim for mostly, are Chateneufs and the famed Côte-Rôtie for their ability to invoke everything from ripe plum, fig paste, truffle, cracked pepper and sea salt, to melted chocolate, anise and mushroom. Also, to be perfectly reasonable, the sensation of agreeable gaminess is something I could not do without. When basking in the economy of things, Gigondas and Crozes-Hermitage offer relief from appellations that command higher prices. However, money never has anything to do with my enjoyment, it’s the effort of the winemakers who want to keep the traditional  Rhône style alive despite the cost. Few craftsmen actually blend white and red grapes, but Côte-Rôtie is one indigenous example of a marriage between Syrah and Viognier; so, with tendencies prevailing, here you have a classically well-balanced export within your grasp.

Admittedly, it doesn’t matter if it’s from “Guigal, Domaine Du Cayron,” or, “Château Beaucastel.” Keep the tradition alive and I’ll keep drinking. The Rhône  whites are for me, just as bold and equally encompassing to my personal tastes. Should I save them for another critique? Why not?  I’ll surprise you sometime soon, maybe around August. I know that’s a bit tricksy, but I’ve had to indignantly sort out why some vintners stress the importance of “creating” balanced, minutely extracted vintages. I thought the whole point of this business was to enjoy something brash and unapologetically carnal.

I would say, “It is, what it is,” but tiny little suggestions are just not sexy enough. 

-Brian K. Maniotis
 
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

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