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| Andes Bonarda Rsv |
I often believe in the personification of wine, or any varietal in question. Not to say this idea hasn’t fled through the minds of many geeks, but I do think fermentation has an unavoidable human quality to it. Sometimes, the dimensions of this cult aesthetic are at best, the sociable brick-a-brack you might have heard at your local haunt. I save myself the indignity of huffing for every time I hear someone loosely spouting out the same garbled mess; how wine itself, ‘is like child rearing.’ Wait ! It gets better...I have also partook in hearing from my peers, the conceptual anecdote: 'Fine wine is like revisiting something primordial.’ Okay, I have enough leftover textbooks to say, that bacteria isn’t viticulture’s prime name on the pages of our social registry. Rather, since I appear to be permissive in my critiques, all this plain talk about humanizing wine allows me to characterize it. Let‘s call her, “Malbecky,” a fourth-year grad student at Vassar, who studies chemistry only because of her sole intent to land an introverted husband. Sure, she has the potential to be much more ripe, focused, or approachable, but even positive mentoring won’t help her. The human traits are gone, and were never binding. She has a name, but no true and definite personality. Too bad that she’s all frills and the only thing that stands in her complementary view, are glazed flank steaks. I know what you’re thinking, I’m outwardly trashing Malbec...no, this is not so. I love Malbec, but what is the signal purpose of it’s name ? I think for at least one minute a day, that like Malbecky, it’s afforded the wrong brand of popularity.
I have a new epigram for us:
“Bonarda !” Just like the author, Garcia Lorca, shouting, “Duende!” I call forth anyone to achieve, or partake in something artful. Why? Because we practically misunderstand the naming of
Malbec and its due inertia within the terms of human vocabulary; so much in fact, that we never seem to
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| Uva Rara |
understand what we’re really getting. What I’m conveying here, is our presence in fostering the appeal of certain grapes, but our tendency to realize their worth based on a single name, is inconclusive. Argentina’s
Bonarda, which is actually the equivalent to Italy’s
“Uva Rara,” may as well be two paternal twins vying for attention in a gene pool filled with yeast and malic acid. Though, the Italian Bonarda grape itself, is not exactly the most welcome guest at the next family romp. It’s actually the one referred to as, “Croatina,” or in full scope, “Bonarda Oltrepo Palvese.” Lombardy enjoys the appeal of the latter names, while Piedmont’s inhabitants seem to share in the delectability of
“Uva Rara” with South American vintners. Ready? It gets even more confusing, concerning the fact that “Bonarda Novarese” is just another comical hitch in the naming of a fruit that goes by
“Charbono” in California.Withstanding, France also has its cross-section of similar surnames usually labeled as: "Charbonneau, Corbeau, or Douce Noir."
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| Tofanelli Charbono |
See ? You would need some sort of viticultural obstetrician to determine things. However, for posterity’s sake, let’s stick to
Uva Rara,
Charbono and the Argentine contrasts. We all know that formidable producers are the real zealots behind the good stuff, so here’s my take on it: The
2008 “Sur De Los Andes Reserva...” showy blueberry, cocoa bean and ripe black fruit leading to notes of sweet espresso. Okay, that means a whole lot to me. Second, My
2008 “Frecciarossa Uva Rara” was for me, livelier, showing more brightness, with scintillating red fruit, underbrush and milled spices. Whereas, the
2004 "Tofanelli Charbono" is, with the lack of serious expletives, a damn-fine execution from California that pelted me with everything from cranberries-to-cardamom and butterscotch.
Gleaning what I will from names, products, or overall profiles, I think vacating North America for Mendoza is the best idea right now. Despite being launched into a series of personal initiatives and fact-checking, I would sooner place myself in a deluge of inexpensive
Bonarda from the place that brought us the best of Churrasco. Though the Malbec grape is the more influential cohort, the sexiest culprit is the one grape I’ve been making all the fuss about. The need to absorb knowledge about any varietal naming is somewhat skewed by enjoyment; but for the time being, everything I consume must in some way, gauge itself in the parallels between taste and research.
Heh, I wonder what would happen If I referred to
"Pedro Ximenez" as: “Gramps.”
-Brian K. Maniotis
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team
Visit us online @:
westchesterwine.com
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