Thursday, April 21, 2011

The Presence Of Red Bubbles...

PRS Sparkling Shiraz
I don’t necessarily question the allure of good Champagne. White or pink, there are some immediate benefactions surrounding the creaton, consumption and overall production. Either way, I think its presence in wine culture may be too highly regarded. Sometimes, bottles of white bubbly tend to resemble nothing but upturned pontoons floating in translucent buckets filled with ice and frozen walnuts. Yes, walnuts…If you ever happen to reach “Les Deux Magots” in Paris, you may catch a glimpse of such useless spectacles. Honest, the food is stellar, but I always prefer carnal modes of indulgence. Objectively speaking, there’s too little emphasis on good vodka when it comes to fish eggs. There’s nothing like a clear, artesian spirit to pair with those salty little nodules. I would rather spin round’ the Lazy Susan to reveal unto me, a bunch-full of Belgian frites bound in Logan Wrap, accompanied by a reasonably-priced bottle of bubbles. I’m probably going to be pelted with stale baguettes, or beluga tins for the sheer mention, but I think the fizzy stuff is much better off with grilled steak, or fried snacks. No need for digging deep into our beer pockets when we want our flute glasses filled, because there’s plenty of good stuff to wash away the six-pack blues. I warn you though…its not my intent to be sneaky, but our hopes for effervescently economic enjoyment may not rest in Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier anymore.Red grapes are revitalizing our understanding of the ceremonial pop and pour.

Though I wouldn’t go so far as saying that sparkling reds are well employed in their pairings with fries or
burgers, they are one hell of a go-to product if you’re looking to skim-off the doldrums of early spring. You know, it’s a little warmer outside and rain has depressed most of what’s secreted in your adrenal glands; come on, you owe it to yourself to have a slightly chilled red for once without appearing squeamish. Ok, if you really want a food pairing, you're actually better off finishing a Tiramisu before unleasing a zippy red.Summer is slowly on its way, and you can’t quite find reasons to drink bubbly white wine just yet. We’ve seen the monotony betimes, in a pearled rosé that hasn’t quenched the need for something different; namely, a full-on, head-first plunge into red wine that tickles the palate while providing the usual succor. This time, the skins are remaining intact during the first round of fermentation and you’re going to have bubbles after the second; that is, yeast and sugar are added again to execute the process. Interesting…our basic idea of  “Charmat,” or something close to it, with red grapes that are not going to be harvested from the Champagne region this time. 

Though Australia, Italy and are practically spearheading the market, Everything from Shiraz, Brachetto,
Di Corlo Lambrusco
Lambrusco and various forms of rosé are now reaching outward. The confusion is properly gauged only in being too indecisive at this very moment. I enjoy richer, lusty reds, so I mused upon myself to go with a Shiraz of some sort. Princess Royal Station did well, mostly because I was expecting something with gobs of plum and Tellicherry pepper notes. Yes, these elements were pretty salient, but not overwhelming. Amiably surprised, I noticed traces of mineral and a hidden juiciness that led to a somewhat crisper edge not typically seen in the varietal. Categorically, most of the reds I’ve encountered border on the candied side, but are certainly not upsetting. A Lambrusco from Villa Di Corlo was frothy and fruit-driven, but not cloying. Italians proudly make wine and jam from the grape, so the connections are tastefully intermittent. Brachetto is another novel choice for me. Some would say it’s the closely regarded kin to Lambrusco, but I veer in a different direction. I like Brachetto because of it’s floral character and the innermost presence of red fruits. I would go far as to say that strawberries collectively owe a great debt to winemakers who seem to have harnessed the essecence of "fragole" season in Italy. Red, but enrobed somewhere between rosy, or rouge, Marenco is my favorite producer thus far. However, I have expectant hopes for bubbles in Malbec; more so now, considering that I see it as a burgeoning piece of popular interest. I know sparkling Pinot Noir is available in its garnet-colored ensemble, but that seems a bit too predictable for me at this moment. 

My only gripe seems to be, that there’s not enough inspiration to make reds that qualify as sparkling, fizzy,
Marenco Brachetto
bubbly, frizzante, or just plain carbonated. Why only are we being obliged now to the availability of ruby effervescence? Imagine glasses filled copiously from grapes native to the Priorat region. I would not dispute how lucrative a Monastrell would be if it had a little gas. No, I don’t mean rosé, I would expect the integrity of the noble grape to be played upon. I’ve heard there’s a lot of brighter, more homespun reds— internationally speaking— but nothing that has anymore status than a festive pop-up. In that sense, thumbs eagerly pointed up again for Uva Rara and now, Australian Merlot, but like all enthusiastic drinkers, I want to see some more bustling from our producers here and there.





Like children on the Fourth of July, we’re demanding our sparklers.

-Brian K. Maniotis
 
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

Visit us online @: westchesterwine.com

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