Searching Within The Namesake.

Sarmenti Primitivo

It’s a Puglian dream. A brooding varietal that generously grows across the reaches of southern Italy. You could say it’s an inkfish’s conception of delectable wine, more or less, because of its color, and for everyone who would choose to write about it. Still, I’ve taken too much time in misunderstanding a grape that harbors so many questions for people who can’t define it. As my imagination will endure, I myself picture the precariously regarded fruit as being the subject of many cave drawings, or rather, described in glyphs that date back to the Pharaonic ages. Let’s say that we’ve stumbled upon an old parchment that has a spherical object emphasized on-cover. Clearly, if we’re willing to believe that this spheroid, or its own legacy, is somewhat primitive, we could see it as being exactly that. Well, it isn’t. Not for me at least, because no matter what brand of archeological evidence, or scientific relationships can be recorded, grapes in kinship are no better examples to their family, than what they can rightly prove in a drinking glass. Sorry if I led you to believe that Primitivo did in fact, date back to Egyptian times, or represented the central focus of Cromagnon winemaking. Who am I to say if the annals of history could lay claim to this? Ah, but so much of history is unforgiving...so let’s talk about wine.

You might think “Crljenak Kasteljanski” was the frontman behind an early nineties Europop trio from Croatia, but he’s not. In reality, it is the fundamental grape that has skewed our knowledge of Primitivo and respectively, Red Zinfandel. Now, you have been witness to my displeasure over the social ambiguity of “The Big Zinny,” but there’s more to this melodramatic rangle of birthrights, lineage and overall impressions of taste. There’s a lot of conversation over “Crljenak” being the ulimate parent of ‘Primi-Zinto,’ but some would say this paternal image is still a bit vague for those who bring varietals like “Plavac” and “Dobricic” into thought. DNA tests show that Plavac is the son of Crejenak and Dobricic, but is Dobricic responsible for the rift between Primitivo and Zinfandel? Scholarly advice tends to indicate that the split between ‘P’ and ‘Z’ happened sometime when Crljenak was met by other grapes traveling from Greece or Albania. Basically, the linkage is insufficient, but somehow, there’s one grape, or many, that have a huge sense of bravado within this genetic playground. There are a trove of similar Eastern European varieties; in lieu, their names garnished with too many accents and special characters to note. Besides, how could I prove any familial lineages by their sheer mention?

What I am amused by though, more relevantly, is the rich, banquted allure of a Primitivo. Typically pitchy in
color, but endowed with everything from dark chocolate to subtle gaminess, they offer something to me that is more visceral, more comforting; then say, a canoe ride down a stream of jammy, more effeminate juice. I take it upon myself to say there’s an obvious allure in something antiquated here, as you could define for yourself, if you’ve wandered somewhere inside the geographic bootheel of Italy. Notwithstanding, vineyards

Layer Cake Zin or Primitivo ?

in “Apulia” have diligently produced sensible, luscious reds that are fiscally manageable; lucky for us, since great wine is still associated with luxury in the 21st century.

Schola Sarmenti is my sought-after producer, with their “Critera” being the one I typically vouch for in an argument over similarly-priced reds. I would be so brash to mention chocolate again, but why not ? It seems to envelope my palate with that confectionary note, while being very specific in mentioning cherry, damp earth and anisette. For less than twenty Lira, I would say the bottle’s presence on any table, should be strictly peninsular.

Although it remains conspicuous in origin, Primitivo and Zin are falling into lawfull scrutiny and labling specifics that are more indoctrinating, if not obligatory. Regardless of mapping the bloodlines, or even the travel routes; terrain, traducers and consumers are the real players when it comes to the underlying “ZPC” (Zinfandel-Primitivo-Crljenak) conflict. Be it father, mother, or sibling rivals, the overarching problem represents itself within a family of grapes that are not on speaking terms...no terms which are significantly human.  

Hey kids, get in the living room, it’s time for a meeting…

-Brian K. Maniotis
 
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

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