Dreamscapes: "Arak"

Massaya Arak

Fennel…a vegetable simultaneously affected by the disregard and reverence that common produce would not be experienced to. I love it…but  I’m no picketer, calling for a wild, almost untamed bulby vegetable to somehow, elicit its own sense of change. However, the same white and green bastion of licorice and various cooking staples, is owed more spectacle than up-tempo frittatas and Indian cuisine. The seeds, my fellow mixologists are going to, or may, put you out of work someday. The cultural splendor of cocktails may nearly be over when “straight” drinking makes a vegetal comeback. I forsee something more than scotch, bourbon, or tequila reassurging. I appear to have liquor laden dreams emphasized by little green seeds, or the starry pods that contain them…but I do not see pods or seeds. Confused ? Well, dreams don’t have to make sense. All you have to do is imagine yourself somewhere in the lone expanses of the Bekaa Valley, where not only wine, but spirits come, as if to eagerly wave anise fronds over the contours of your nose. Try the lamb and beef Kofta while you’re taking part in this. I know that I would. Especially if I could be anywhere in the world at this very minute, I think I would be sipping Arak for countless hours in Lebanon’s most famed agricultural site to-date.   

Obedi grapes make the base, but the fennel is the most attractive player in the bid to make “Arak,” a traditional century-spanning aperitif that is often compared to other spirits such as Ouzo, Raki, Sambuca and Aquavit. With a little uncertainty, most people do not realize the difference between all of them, which clouds the popularity of Lebanon’s most highly regarded spirit. Similar in some sense, it bolsters the idea of what something like an anisette can be, but retains more purity and finesse. Firstly, the white Obedi grapes are harvested like any other, then pressed and fermented. Additionally, a tertiary distilation using macerated aniseed is performed before the final ageing process, which is a bit lengthier. Traditionally, copper stills are used in the distillation, while clay “amphorae” pots are used for the remaining four-month coaxing period. What you receive, is a generous dollop of fennel, with a natural sweetness completely withdrawn from products that would appear saccharine in taste. Served chilled, it’s a common release from the hard days’ work that probably, you, or many Lebanese craftsmen endure, trying to keep annual grape vintages up to par. After consistently brushing the manifold sweat away from my forehead during the summer, I could verily enjoy a cold, crispy glass of Arak by myself, and contemplate the work I’ve done; or, I am about to partake in. The trick is, to have a plate of blanched asparagus with tahini and lemon nearby.

EFE Turkish Raki

Some think I am too obsessed with food and drink, but they’re probably right. Nothing would rightly compel anyone to believe that I am not a fan of Middle Eastern and Mediterreanean fare, even if Ouzo was forcibly introduced to me; accompanying such things as: “Feta Pie” or meaty “Sambusak.” What is revealed, are my own extracurricular motives and typical trains of thought; in that, I personally see potential freedoms in elongated shot glasses filled with Arak…but which one ? El Massaya…more than likely, the best I’ve had thus far without embarking to Beirut. Again, I speak of clear, focused purity that suggests the most  profound essence of the fennel seed. The aroma is equally prevalent when compared to the taste, which is a good sign for those patiently waiting to take the first sip. Manners are important though, because the palate may require some fine tuning in order to receive such a bold extract. College students and first-timers must be wary of any inclination to treat it like a barroom gamepiece. It’s something that requires a little conversation between you and everyone else whose enjoying it.

I would not forget at least, to save some for coffee, or espresso. It does the unilateral culinary dance that Sambuca always seems to mis-step. Think about a bowl of mussels, or seared lamb being deglazed and prepped for further cooking. I have to get on a similar ballot, now that all this brouhaha over Arak is enabling me to miss the entirety of personal gastronomy. It’s nearly the middle of the afternoon, and I have nothing but stale Cattarato and leftover hummus in my fridge.

Consequently, I have work to do…then maybe, some day-dreaming.

-Brian K. Maniotis
 
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

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