| Chateau Musar |
Though I might have extrapolated on a few interesting things coming from a place that borders Syria, I don’t think I’ve ever come to realize the potential in posting about it. Well, don’t second-guess me, because I try as often as possible to profile many regions, principalities, nations, etc., that embolden the aspects of contemporary winemaking; and no, I don’t mean the unsophisticated, fruit-forward blasphemies of the Nouveau Monde. Seriously, no other country seems to have represented an ulterior balance quite like Lebanon has; often, with those under-marketed bottles and their reputed value, that still have me wondering how it all came to pass. Though inspiration might be something bankrolled, initiated, or just plain influenced by French viticulture, I’m seeing a good number of alternatives in blended reds and whites that the Lebanese have fermenting as we speak.
It’s no surprise really, since everyone who has been held back in the wine trade for the past hundred years due to political, theological, or reasons that would have otherwise conflicted grape-growing, i.e., weather and climate, Lebanon has some great choices for those who are looking for inexpensive wine to pair with light stews and cheese that creates a bevy of crunchy little proteins. That sounds like a lark, doesn’t it ? Hmm...maybe some lamb tenderloin cooked in a dutch oven with cumin, paprika olive oil and a little bit of red wine, or, just a couple wedges of Campo Montalban. Oh hell, why don’t I just head to the market now and pick it up? It would not be too impulsive of me right? No, not when you have the juice to make it a worthwhile excursion.
Aside from easy, one-pot meals and casein-rich dairy products, there’s two producers that have my head turning away from my usual indulgences. For one, “Chateau Musar” has a red blend (a.k.a The “Jeune”) where Cinsault dominates an interesting percentage of Carignan, Cabernet Sauvigon and Syrah. Intriguing as it is, don’t think this is a youthful upstart that puts Cabernet in third place. The estate has been producing wine since the 1930’s, which is not a testament to the longevity of winemaking tradition over the past millennium, but they make an obvious sense of it. Blackberries, raspberries dusty tannins and plum sauce take precedent over my tasting notes and lead me to believe there’s more to it’s “$20 and below” price point.
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| Kefraya White |
As I tend to do, I cannot bring myself to say that white wine has been the most popular in Lebanon, but it deserves some much-needed care and reasonable confluences of attention. I like Chateau Kefraya’s red blends as well, but their white blend still has me thinking about the long approach to summertime. “La Dame Blanche,” is their take on a blend of Ugni Blanc, Bourboulenc and Clairette. Soft, dewy and reminiscent of lime drops, this is probably one of the best white wines I have tried that are between the $10-to-$13 dollar mark. I could sit tableside with a plate of scallops sauteed in a saffron butter sauce and just routinely pig-out as I choose to when there’s wine like this around.
Would I even need to go on further? It doesn’t matter, you need to fulfill some of your own destiny and get out a bottle of each. One thing is certain...you don’t have to feel like a cheapskate for denying yourself something that’s way beyond the commercial practicality of Lebanon’s Bekka valley. Every vintner have something that sounds abjectly French, but it is certainly not so. With all the speculation at the expense of big producers and consumers in France and elsewhere, there’s no competition in the realization of obtaining great wine, that is, without throwing more “argent” at the cause. I think we’re on to something with these reasonable participants.
But oh well, you’re still going with expensive French wine aren’t you?
Brian Maniotis
Westchester Wine Warehouse
Visit us @ westchesterwine.com
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