Unto Itself. . . It's an Island

A North Fork Greeting

Brooklyn and Queens are practically self-governing in their appeal. So that is to say, with Nassau and Suffolk County; well, you’ve heard plenty about them, but they have not experienced the same communicative popularity seen in various media outlets. Though what is the known link between these suburban utopias? ‘It’s Lung Guyland, buddy !’ You know, the Piscean landmass continuously gumming for Manhattan’s line of savory baits and flashy tackles? If you’re not familiar, I’m talking about a meagerly visited realm where the complacent North Shore is completely different from the mostly laid-back South Shore. If I mention The Hamptons, I may have mused upon something less vague. Now, before you decide whether or not this is a conflict of interest, I admit by all accounts, I am native to Long Island; seriously, it doesn’t mean that I have worked up all this predisposed sentimentality about the wine on the North and South Fork. Although I have collected a few souvenirs—which are nearly cashed, consumed, or otherwise—I personally enjoy it more so than I ever have. Maybe this is more to do with the fact that I live in Westchester now, but I honestly say, that upon some rediscoveries, the juice sure is tastier.

All the pre-century cranberry bushes in Babylon and the apple trees in Riverhead now plead no contest to farming ideals that were once at the heart of Long Island’s economy. Conceptions of “grist milling” and potato farms are memories at best, leaving viticulture to thrive vicariously for locals and tourists who bear the dreadful trek to the last exit on I-495. After exit #71 It’s all worth it, you have that classically diverged road leading you to Rte.# 25 or 27. Really, you can find more vines en route through #25 in the north, ah yes, but the South Fork promises guided maps to celebrated residencies.

Wolffer Estate Rose

Oh, but enclosed stretches of bucolic property and seaside rentals are not the places to be talking about. Wolffer Estate in Sagaponack, is more interesting for me, because of its rich lineage of rosés which have stood beyond the usual ‘Think Pink’ standard of spring-to-summer wine consumption. Their adaptability comes from a citrus and red fruit background that has always been quenching. Their 2009 vintage is a crafty blend of Merlot, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Chardonnay grapes that give me the feeling there’s a whimsical ordeal in place here. Given the fact that the blending percentages aren’t exactly linear, the relatively low 6,600 case production is not surprising. It’s not the only vineyard in my sights though, mostly because I’ve been prodded to always drink wine from the Northern Fin. Peconic Bay and Bedell Cellars are always springboards for my own personal enjoyment. Hedonism never found so good of a home after a guilty Thanksgiving holiday weekend spent lazily sipping Peconic’s line of “Nautique” blends on their adjacent porch. Red or white ? doesn’t matter. . .you’re here because Claudio’s famous seafood restaurant is your next dose of indulgent thoughtlessness. Oh poo! I forgot Bedell . . .no I did not, because missing the ‘09 vintage of  their “First Crush” is inapplicable. The only reason to be indecisive now, is to question oneself about purchasing a bottle of Nautique as opposed to any other. From what I know, it won for Peconic, the award for best red blend in NY State. . .Hehe, It’s almost like a regatta for the palate; so, I hope you brought a pair of bluchers too, because you’re going to be heaved straight out of your normal looking shoes.   

Peconic Bay's Nautique Red

I understand there may be some nay-sayings about the Island’s vineyards, but I feel the old dissent common to its earliest customers is perfectly irrelevant now. I remember too, when it was infantile and sprouting, all you could expect were under or overwrought copies of reds styled from the St Estèphe appellation and limey Sauvignon Blanc. Rieslings that would have Germany pondering what “Auslese” means, are also part of tired misconceptions. If I could honestly tell you the worst of what I experienced, it would be about how I’ve been chased and bitten by different species of geese several times while attending outdoor tastings. Now, I miss even them at times. Still . . .memories of dodging the mid-road guinea hens waddling near Jamesport still enrich my soul.

Nassau County based wine tours ? Dolcetto, Lemberger and now Malbec grapes too ?

Something about the Island I once knew has truly changed . . .