La Crianza Loco

Savia Del Sole Crianza

I’m usually the speculative type when it comes to information. Maybe it’s the years I’ve spent in disciplinary journalism, or, quite possibly, my sleight-of-hand motions in the kitchen that have made me adherent to strict details. Which is funny, because the sheer practicality of items, or certain designations, important or trivial, are oftentimes not worth any concern to me. Sometimes, reading monikers, proverbs, denominal information, passages and orts of cumulative data are completely for naught. I respect the influential nature of proper listings, or any other piece of good research, but I’m just as much an organism nose-deep in whatever niche this kindly planet has sufficed for me. An environ of wine, which you probably guessed, is where I judge and contemplate things. Not like the elders of the past who so keenly reckoned well-known tidbits of philosophy, but rather, this person whose writing makes the reds and whites of the world appear somewhat accessible and…presentable, if that makes sense. I know reading labels can be a helpful tool in understanding your choices. However, for some, it’s more of a way to properly remind drinkers about what’s going to happen on their palates. Who knows? There might be a machine, other than an enomatic wine dispenser, that can eliminate a monotony of contemplations when outlining the truths of terrain, varietals and ageing methods. Nope, just trust in Spain…scan the bottle and taste the predilection.

“Crianza” for some, is an inert word that branches into many things. There are scattered treasure chests of

proper descriptions and overall misinterpretations, but I don’t think anyone is quite sure what to believe.

When it comes to refreshing my understandings, sometimes I feel like I’m a paralegal thumbing through a guidebook of terminologies that are all based in Latin. Well, of course, by some stretch of history it’s definitely Latin, but more importantly, getting the factoids right can be an uncomfortable, anonymous carnival ride where you turn up soaking wet at the end. What I would say, is that “Rioja” and the “Ribera Del Duero” regions tend to have the similar ideas when it comes to ageing strata. Here, identical  Tempranillo, or “Tinto Fino” grapes are coaxed into younger specialties, which have been aged for at least 12 months in oak. But wait, sometimes they are not released until two years after the harvest; ok, that’s odd, because I find that some Bodegas hold on to them longer than that! So, I’m beginning to think there’s some extra ageing going on here inside the bottle. Very interesting to say the most, because the “Reserva” reds of Rioja and Ribera tend to have three years of capable polishing, with that familiar stipulation that whatever the barrel contains, it must endure an entire annum.

So, where am I to draw the familial line here between Crianza and Reserva ? What does it mean to be if laws so succinctly apply a younger, more virile upstart in the common consumption of wine? Most other regions with any “Denominación De Origen” can lawfully abscond from this practice, by making “Sin Crianzas,” which do not bear the same regulatory standards. Age it for six months, or twelve? It depends on the imaginations of vintners I guess. Somewhere by promise, the “Joven” varieties should be promoted as the

Marques Caceres

‘Big C’ instead; seriously quaffing, this concept of producing the youngest wines in Spain seems to be more of an object-lesson, rather than something definite. Maybe that’s the real issue here, since this is honest winemaking from a country with a panache for dealing with otherwise inhospitable growing conditions. Especially since winemakers are, more or less, beacons of philosophy, rather than commoners who operate within the exact tenants of production laws. Good wine is mandatory, so rules and regulations should be positively skewed to make use of unfavorable situations, conditions and etcetera.            

All I can implore, is that most Crianzas I’ve had are similarly “younger” reds which are still indefinitely juvenile, but often strengthen the appeal of morcellated bits of meats, proteins and a variety of aged manchegos. Savory, salty, it doesn’t matter…all that does, can be summed-up in dashes of pimenton and the occasional seafood dishes that make these Spanish reds so accessible. There’s a couple you cannot do without: The edgy “2008 Sierra Cantabria” for one, while “Savia Del Sol” has a 2007 vintage that is probably one of the most approachable on the market; which conveys a richer, more palate-friendly item with an unconventional presence of fruit. Though flattery is still placed on an old college favorite of mine that’s never ambiguous in its satisfaction. You probably know Marqués De Cáceres, but even I need to be re-introduced at times. Impudent or not, you can expect dark spices, plum, overall vigor and yet, a suave competency that seems to adhere strictly to Spain’s growing number of popular exports.

Usually, I’m a provacateur of reds, but in purpose, the Crianza factor still remains true for whites. As you may guess, the ageing times for these are variably shorter, but still make some affable Blancos that delicately muse upon the world’s underwater creatures. Now, I do endorse Garnacha and Monastrell oftentimes as I can partake, but the paellas and Ibérico hams are just too indulgent…I hate to admit it, but sometimes, letting go of the things you prate on and on about, is just imperative.

Make way for something fresh, bright and…an old favorite?

-Brian K. Maniotis
 
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

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