A Small Misnomer

Petit Syrah or Shiraz ?

Sometime ago, my former college roommate had stopped into the Warehouse to pick up a few sundries. Naturally, we talked at length about times past and the otherwise bothersome nature of wine culture, but I remember one aphorism in particular. “You know, Petite Syrah is going to be the next Zinfandel,” he said. Funny. . .but with that, came a noetic revelation. Imagine if you will, a story about hoards of malcontents making way through California’s wine valleys, uprooting centenary Red Zin vines and replacing the once vital rootstocks with nothing but Petite Syrah. Take into consideration, state senators lobbying for all its producers, to subsidize the imminently popular cash crop. In tandem, a textile bearing the grape’s likeness, is commissioned to be sewn onto the state flag; where already present, patchwork depictions of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon varietals are poorly affixed. Hoards of Brooklyn hipsters then surmise the lack of irony in their enjoyment and tumultuously pour gallons of it into rooftop storm drains. Before you can say, “Vendange!” news anchors act like the concomitants between its function in pop-couture, but with the usual sense of smarminess that exists in daytime broadcasting. Call it strange if you will, but with the right prompt, it’s possible.

But it’s “Petite Syrah,” or “Petit Sirah” and never called ‘Petite Shiraz’ oddly enough. It is however, rarely referred to as the “Durif,” or “Peloursin” grapes which are DNA match-ups according to recent studies in Ampelography. Considered to be a nonconforming fruit, French vintners discarded the theory that, despite its name, it could produce something worthwhile. However, as winemaking history has shown us, unsuccessful varieties are inadvertently promising. Estates in California have simultaneously built-up, or simply permitted its vines to cohabitate with Grenache, Syrah, Mouvedre, Alicante Bouschet and the ubiquitous Zinfandel. “Ok, that’s fine, but how does a varietal with such a conceptual upbringing imply that it’s Syrah on a much smaller scale ?”

Like the ‘Big S,’ it can be youthfully tannic and show characteristics of milled pepper and dark berry fruits.

Wooden Nickel '05

Also, a full body is a generally acceptable trait, but personally, I am not going to accept any of it. I remember sitting down to a meal with Wooden Nickel’s 2004 vintage, and thinking: “Heh-heh, spiced cookie, very nice. Wow! Pie crust, berry jam and what’s that . . . kirshwasser ?” Compared to 2005, which could be
considered a more exalted and exemplary Petite, the previous vintage was lighter and bounding with cherry notes. I still wonder about the ‘05 though, because it was actually a brighter entry. Firm yes, but its collection of fruit, tea and earth notes reminded me of dining next to a Bureau de Tabac. . . incredible.

The upcoming prestige of the wine itself is more variable than what it appears to be. I’m thinking lately, that among other varietals, Petite Syrah is, and will remain the least definitive. As I recall, the last piece of satire it ever enjoyed was in the early nineties, when it was a peremptory object in the film adaptation of “Richie Rich” starring, Macaulay Culkin. Though keeping mindful, I earnestly hope the grape absorbs more publicity than what other entities are privileged to.

Perhaps Mr. Culkin should think about expanding a little . . .but I addressed this issue in a previous post.

Cheers !

-Brian K. Maniotis
 
Westchester Wine Warehouse Team

Visit us online @: westchesterwine.com